Tag Archives: Style

Men’s Cologne — Icon by Alfred Dunhill

Dunhill Icon is definitely more than just a pretty flaçon. Contained within the exceptionally heavy and cool textured steel-jacketed bottle, which resembles one of their vintage Deco or Mid-Century table lighters, is a very fine modern take on the classic fougére.

Described by the house as a “woody-aromatic” what comes across on first sniff is more like a new riff on Dior’s original Eau Sauvage, with a less sweet but still fizzy neroli/bergamot combo exhilarating the senses while a nice black pepper note plays against this enticing semi-fruity opening. The orange-pepper vibe also brings to mind (or nose) Terre d’Hermes, though Icon is no where near as earthy as that influential composition. And the spicy pepper in Icon works just as well as it does in Chanel’s more grapefruit-oriented Bleu, undergirding the composition beautifully to let the citric notes, especially the very orangey neroli, do their thing in pleasantly bright and naturalistic fashion.

Where Dunhill falls short of Bleu de Chanel and my other favorite classy modern crowd pleaser, Acqua di Gio Profumo, is in its lackluster performance. Officially classified as an Eau de Perfum, this moniker can only be referring to the quality of the ingredients and the concentration of natural oils in the juice because it certainly doesn’t project or last like a Parfum. More like an Eau de Cologne or, in fact, like the utterly pleasant but notoriously weak Eau Savage EDT.

While the note pyramid is almost comically overstuffed with wishful thinking ingredients like oakmoss, leather and the ubiquitous note du jour, oud, I get little to none of these. Continue reading →

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage 1960s Vacheron & Constantin ref. 6308 in Steel

It’s only fitting that in the month of Thanksgiving I’m offering up a special piece that any true vintage watch aficionado would be grateful to own — a 1960s Vacheron & Constantin reference 6308 dress watch in stainless steel.

Much like their main rivals in haute horology, Patek Phillipe, Vacherons in steel are fairly uncommon, as both manufactures preferred to work in precious metals and still do to this day. This 6308 is also characterized by its full sized 36mm case diameter and an absolutely stunningly symmetrical dial layout.

Inside this peerlessly elegant watch beats the heart of a champion — a JLC-derived manual caliber P454/5b with sweep seconds, 18 jewels, a whopping 8 original adjustments and stamped with two Geneva Seals, an attestation of particular horological achievement somewhat above and beyond the usual Chronometer certification.

Coming with both its rare original USA-made brick link bracelet and a perfectly suitable thin black lizard strap, this Vacheron 6308 ticks all the boxes for the man of style and substance. With the Holiday Season just about to hit full stride I can think of no better wrist companion than this beautiful dress VC to accompany you to all your finer festivities.

Check out the full ad now with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the always busy Dealers & Manufacturers section at Watchuseek. If you’re looking for a timelessly elegant timepiece you’ll be glad you did! SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage Tudor ref. 7016 Snowflake Submariner

It’s the last day of October and what better match for Halloween that this Tudor Snowflake Submariner with amazing pumpkin patina? This rugged beauty is all original, unpolished and dates to 1970. It’s a first generation Snowflake dial as you can tell by the exceedingly rare SWISS-only signature below “6.”

This 7016/0 Tudor Sub, a reference which started with Rose dials before transitioning to Shield Snowflake dials like this one, is obviously no safe queen and seems to wear every one of its years on this planet with a well-earned mark or nick to its Oyster by Rolex case. These first generation Snowflake dials were also prone to a “bubbling” effect to the surface due to a reaction between the paint and the plate, which you can clearly see on this example. While the wabisabi on this devil won’t be to everyone’s tastes, I love it because it just shouts unmolested vintage authenticity. Ad isn’t that really what its all about?

Top all that ugly beauty off with period correct bezel with fat font insert, Tropic 19 domed crystal and even the original no-dots big Twinlock crown and you have an amazing 48-year-old survivor that was clearly used like a toolwatch should be. And did I mention that stunning deep orange patina? As unique as a many-times sharpened hunting knife, this Tudor Snowflake is ready for its next adventure. Only this time it’ll be on your wrist as you impart your own unique history to this already great and long-lived Submariner.

Check out the complete ad now over at Vintage Rolex Forum’s Market section with many more pictures and complete condition report to make this stunning, patina-rich Snowflake Sub yours right now! ON HOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage 1970s IWC Yacht Club Blue Dial B&P

As October speeds along and we inevitably face those frantic Holiday-filled final few months of the year it’s time to take a quick pause before the action begins and consider a truly beautiful and special vintage timepiece — this mid-1970s IWC Yacht Club with stunning blue dial on original bracelet.

Now the blue dial alone is reason enough to catch the savvy collector’s attention. But then there’s the fact that it also comes with its original box and a raft of matching paperwork that has survived the years along with this stunning watch. These bits of history include the original guarantee and even the sales receipt from Spandau, Germany dated 1976, among other records. That kind of hard-to-find provenance really puts this piece into solid investment grade “collector’s set” territory.

Of course you can’t wear the box and papers no matter how nice those goodies are to have. Where this Yacht Club really shines is on the wrist, its perfectly balanced 36mm “C-shape” case all flowing lines and making the dial really pop. And underneath the hood is a recently serviced caliber 8541B, the ultimate development of IWC’s wonderful in-house automatic calibers at the time.

On land or at sea, this blue Yacht Club is a watch guaranteed to make a fantastically stylish impression — make it yours before the gift giving season heats up and someone else snaps it up!

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and full description now over at the Chronocentric’s great Chronotrader marketplace. ON HOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — October selection

Just as the leaves change colors this time of year so too does vintage watch lume over time — one of the things that makes pre-Luminova 20th century timepieces so attractive & collectible. And to start October I’m offering one of the prettiest patinated watches that I’ve ever owned — this wonderful late 1950s Omega Seamaster “Special.”

With its original eggshell dial having acquired a lovely off-white cream tone from the years and the Radium-filled luminous markers and hands aged to a wonderful biscuity tone this classic Omega Seamaster checks all the vintage boxes.

Named the “Special” in Omega’s database perhaps due to an Olympic connection this example is the first of its line, as evidenced by the 2975-1 reference number, and dates to circa 1958 (an Olympic year, by the way). Inside is the excellent caliber 500 full rotor movement originally adjusted to 2 positions, an uncommon upgrade, and recently serviced.

If its perfect flowing lines and that gorgeous dial are not enough for you this beauty also comes on its rare original Beads of Rice bracelet with highly uncommon ratcheting clasp system for size adjustments without need of a tool, a very cool curiosity.

Throw in its desirable big logo caseback and beautifully proportioned all-steel case, this Seamaster truly lives up to its model moniker. For cutting edge vintage style suitable for any special Autumn event, what more could you ask for?

Check out the complete ad now with many more pictures over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Private Sales section. If you’re a patina love you’ll be glad you did. SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — August selection, Pt. II

August and summer are winding down but there are still hot watches to be had. Case in point — this beautiful vintage Rolex reference 1625 Datejust with engine turned white gold elapsed time bezel, aka the Thunderbird Datejust.

This beautiful T-Bird dates from 1962 and a has slightly later but nonetheless stunning silver dial with Sigma markings flanking the T SWISS T annotation. The Sigma symbols indicate solid gold markers and were only used by Rolex for brief period in the late 1960s and early ’70s. This lovely silver sunburst dial is Near Mint and its original Tritium lume is all intact and has developed a lovely patina.

Under the hood is the somewhat uncommon caliber 1565 Chronometer movement complete with its rare “balance guard,” a cool little vestigial detail. It is ticking away like a champ just like a Rolex should.

Coming on its likely original Swiss made rolled Jubilee bracelet this T-Bird presents beautifully on the wrist. With its handsomely crafted elapsed time bezel in solid gold the Thunderbird Datejust is the perfect blend of tool watch and elegance — a Sports watch for the board room, if you will — and certainly one of Rolex’s most interesting and innovative designs. And IMO, the white gold & steel version is the one to have. So grab it while you can!

Check out the complete ad over at the redoubtable Vintage Rolex Forum’s Market section for many more pictures and complete condition report. You surely be glad you did! SOLD

Men’s Cologne – Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy (Original)

First of all please note that this review is for the original formula of Givenchy Gentleman, which debuted way back in 1974, and not the recent reformulated 2017 release where the label actually reads “Gentleman Givenchy.” I haven’t tried that new, fruitier version so I can’t comment. What I can say is that original Givenchy Gentleman has become one of my favorites and a go-to in my rotation despite the fact that it’s approaching the 45th anniversary of its creation by Paul Leger. So much so that when I saw they were reshuffling it to the Les Parfums Mythiques category where old Givenchy frags are put out to pasture I bought several back-up bottles in case they decided to water it down.

While there is the usual waxing rhapsodic on fragrance forums about the vintage formulation, the modern iteration of Gentleman up until the shift over to Les Parfums Mythiques is still pure class (haven’t tried the LPM version but being so recently in production unlike, say, Xeyrus, I’m hopeful that they haven’t messed it up). From it’s distinctively simple “pharmacist”-style flaçon and spare modernist silver label with black Garamond lettering to the yellow-hued juice inside one immediately gets that “old school” vibe. But the fragrance itself, while certainly created a long time ago, remains timeless. Yes, it’s from the 1970s and yes its dominant note by far is patchouli. However, this is a cologne for people who only think they hate patchouli but have never smelled a well rendered, highly natural version of it. Along with Giorgio of Beverly Hills and the sadly discontinued Moods Uomo by Krizia, Gentleman has the best front and center patchouli note in the mass marketed fragrance business. But unlike Giorgio’s very forward honey-lime notes or the pervasive rose of Moods sweetening the deal, Gentleman’s patch is really both the soloist and the orchestra. Yes, there are the usual “woody aromatic” embellishments listed in the notes pyramid such as cedar and oakmoss but those seem faint to non-existent to my nose, as does the civet, which may have been phased out due to IFRA prohibitions. There is still a nice vetiver playing its part, a creamy orris root binding things together and some semi sweet-ish green spice notes likely from the listed tarragon, as well as a subtle rose note in the background. And the base definitely has a wonderfully long lasting leather note.

But again, this fragrance is all about the patchouli, which is both dirty and clean and goes on forever. When you first spray it on you may be alarmed — this Eau de Toilette is very concentrated — but hang in there for a minute and the fragrance instantly develops into an embracingly warm, inexpressibly elegant concoction cocooning you in pure masculine vibes. Continue reading →

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — July selection

We may be well and truly deep into the heat of July but here’s something ineffably cool — a late 1960s Seamster “Special” with stunning original gloss black dial. Black dials are quite uncommon on Omega dress models of this era and are highly sought after. With its silver print and outstanding original condition this one’s a pip.

Dating from circa 1967-68 and powered by the redoubtable Omega in-house caliber 565 with quickest date via repeatedly pulling out the crown, this Seamaster is a well balanced and classic gent’s 35mm in diameter. It also comes on its period correct beads-of-rice bracelet, a nice bonus, as well as a hand made black leather strap for added versatility..

For some obscure reason — perhaps the enhanced luminous dial? — this model is referred to as a “Special” in Omega’s vintage database. It is also believed that this case and dial combo is likely one of Gerald Genta’s designs for the company. Looking at the beautiful proportions and ergonomics of this watch on the wrist one can easily see why. No doubt about it — Special is a term that truly fits this handsome devil.

Although Omega made a lot of dress Seamasters during this era, a solid steel model rather than gold plated version represents great value for money in my opinion. When you throw in its eye-catching good looks and that magical deep black dial, this Seamster “Special” is one of the true bargains of the vintage watch world. Grab it while that’s still the case!

Check out the complete ad now over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Private Sales section for many more pictures and complete condition report. Better step on it — I don’t see this black beauty lasting too long. ON HOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — June selection, Pt. II

Well, we’re Just about midway through a somewhat up and down June weather-wise but look what just flew in to brighten our day? Wait for it — another fantastic vintage chronograph! Yup, this newly available beauty is a very uncommon vintage Breitling reference 2115 GMT Chrono-Matic in Jumbo 47mm case (don’t faint –it wears great). This example dates from 1970, early on in the great Heuer-Breitling Chronomatic adventure that resulted in some of the most iconic and funky chronographs of the late 1960s and ’70s.

This 2115 features not only an automatic chrono with date with the characteristic crown-on-the-left but also a classic 24-hour hand complication with calibrated “plus/minus” rotating bezel for the calculation of a second timezone. I love a good GMT watch and design-wise this Breitling is one of the cooler and more ambitious ones ever made.

Not for the faint of wrist, this Breitling GMT is nonetheless well proportioned and is a fairly rare beast with a uniquely cool and funky layout — along with the 1809 Cosmonaute one of the nicest on a Chrono-Matic, in my opinion. Check out those great hands not to mention the extra long period original signed bracelet, which is rare as hen’s teeth!

Personally I feel that vintage Breitling could well be the “next big thing” in a year or two. In my opinion the brand’s heritage is undervalued and some real collector appreciation is overdue. Plus, so many other vintage brands are overhyped and — to be honest — underwhelming and overvalued. So if you’ve got the panache to pull off this bad boy you could do a lot worse than adding this beautiful, orange-accented two-timezone beast to your stable. It’s about as fun and funky as a vintage watch gets!

Check out the full ad now over at Watchuseek with many more pictures and complete conditon report. If you like ’em big and complicated you’ll be glad you did! SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — June selection

Sure we’ve turned the page to June but the hits just keep on coming. So I’m proud to offer yet another killer chrono, this time one of the all-time classic pilot watches, an Omega Speedmaster Professional. This example is a reference 145.022 from 1971 and features the last of the handsome and iconic stepped dials.

While not a museum piece, this classic Omega Speedmaster Professional is a solid and honest example perfect for everyday wear and its gorgeous original Tritium stepped dial has developed a pleasing creamy patina, as has the matching handset.

This great Omega is powered by the stalwart Lemania derived caliber 861, re-qualified for space flight by NASA upon its introduction as the successor to the legendary cal. 321 in the late 1960s and therefore certainly up to any and all of your terrestrial timing needs here on Earth.

This 145.022-71 also features the introduction of the modern Speedy pro back with its characteristic Speedmaster Hippocampus medallion and circular NASA print. All in all, it has lot of special little collector qualities that add up to a very appealing acquisition, not the least of which is its reasonable price in this rather overheated market. Pounce today to put this classic early 1970s Moonwatch on your wrist before prices jump yet again!

Check out the full ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the bustling Watchuseek Dealers & Manufacturers section. You’ll be glad you did! SOLD

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