Tag Archives: Style

Men’s Cologne — Vetiver by Guerlain

In much the same way that Givenchy’s original Gentleman is essentially a pure pachouli fragrance, Gurlain’s masculine classic Vetiver is, as you would expect, headlined by a sharp and spicy-clean vetiver note above all others purported to be in this Eau de Toilette’s deceptively cluttered-looking fragrance pyramid.  Yes, if you try really hard you can pick out a bit of nutmeg and cedar undergirding the construction of this well made and timeless offering from the legendary house of Guerlain. And perhaps there is a hint of classic fougere citrus-herb-wood notes floating in and out of this woody aromatic beauty, as well as a subtle civet that was probably much more in your face when this benchmark men’s cologne was introduced way back in 1961. But in the modern iteration the civet is nothing more than a subtle binding ingredient and Vetiver gives of zero funky vibes from that famed catlike mammal’s often challenging but prized secretions.

No, what you get is green, grassy, slightly smokey vetiver at its finest, a clean scent easily splashed on after a shower and a shave with polite sillage and projection but a strong manly, outdoorsy quality. Guerlain’s Vetiver should probably be in the fragrance arsenal of any stylish man because it is so pleasing and pleasingly versatile. While particularly appropriate in the warmer months where the lack of sweetness and the juice’s overall bracing astringency is welcome, it is also easily worn in cooler temps. And while the sharp and smoky earthy grassiness characteristic of good vetiver are stimulating to the senses, Guerlain’s Vetiver lacks the sometimes unpleasantly strange and pervasive sharpness and amplified woody overkill of other highly regarded modern descendants like Lalique’s murky Encre Noir and Commes des Garçons aggressive Wonderwood that make those two much more difficult to wear on a regular basis (or maybe there is something about their shared cashmeran accord that I just don’t love). Instead Guerlain’s original is highly versatile, good for the office or the weekend. In fact, if you’re only taking one cologne on an out of town trip with you this Vetiver is a great choice. Continue reading

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage Omega ref. 166.073 Seamaster 120 “Deep Blue” Dive Watch

Just listed for sale — this cult classic late 1960s/early 1970s reference 166.073 Omega Seamaster 120 with amazing “Deep Blue” dial. This big steel diver was the next iteration in Omega’s increasingly diverse “professional” divers line during that era, following on from the legendary Seamaster 300 and immediately preceding the famed PloProf. And it features the same sort of rugged build quality as those others with a large all-steel “pontoon” lug case measuring 41mm x 46mm and originally boasting superior water resistance for open water diving.

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

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This fantastic Seamaster came to me via trade with a re-done dial and re-lumed hands. So I hunted down a correct period blue Tritium dial in beautiful glossy Near Mint condition. I also sourced a genuine Omega modern Luminova gladiator handset that actually matches quite well, although it will obviously hold its glow for quite a long time unlike the Trit dial and bezel. Additionally, while my watchmaker was swapping out the dial & hands late last year I had him overhaul the very high grade in-house caliber 565 movement.

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

Overall, the watch itself is in Excellent properly restored vintage condition and this big blue beauty is a real stunner on the wrist. In a world of cookie cutter Submariner wannabe divers, the Seamaster 120 Deep Blue stands out from the crowd with its bold, individualistic design and that , applied markers with heavily luminous background and stunning liquid blue dial. And so will you when you strap it on.

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

Get it now — click here to contact me for more info on this great vintage Omega SM 120 Deep blue! SOLD

Click here for many more photos and complete condition report

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — 1960s Zenith A273 146HP Chronograph

I’m happy to be able to offer another very special watch — this time a very rare and exceptionally attractive vintage Zenith reference A273 3-register chronograph. Just one look at the almost Bauhaus-Inspired fine calibrations on the lovely silver dial of this Zenith tells you that exceptional care was taken in its design, making it as suitable for the scientist as the sportsman.

Zenith A273 146HP Chrono

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Beneath the oversized 37mm all-steel 3-piece screwed case beats Zenith’s in-house caliber 146HP manual wind chronograph movement. This excellent column wheel chronograph was Zenith’s flagship 3-register caliber before they developed the El Primero automatic chronograph movement later in the ’60s. Note the exceptionally large balance for improved accuracy. It’s also been recently serviced to insure years’ more of faithful performance.

Zenith A273 146HP Chrono

This 1960s A273 has a very modern feel and with the large face it wears extremely prominently and handsomely on any man’s wrist. It definitely makes a cultured and refined statement that few other chronographs do. With the market for high quality vintage chronographs still quite hot I don’t expect this beautiful Zenith to last. So make your move now while its still available and get ready to head into the holiday season in timelessly classic style!

Zenith A273 146HP Chrono 

NOW ON NEW YEAR’s SALE — click here to contact me directly for more info on this great vintage Zenith chrono. SOLD

CLICK HERE FOR MANY MORE PICTURES AND COMPLETE CONDITION REPORT

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — 1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

As August proceeds apace yet another wonderful vintage watch has blown in on the warm breezes — this time an absolutely beautiful Longines Admiral in solid 18k gold from 1968. It’s quite unusual to find Longines dress watches in solid 18k gold from this period, much less with a heavy water resistant polygon screwed back case. To put the cherry on top of the sundae it’s even unpolished and so is nice and thick and displaying its original factory case finishes.

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

This ultra cool swinging ’60s Admiral also features a stunning silver vertically brushed “tapestry” dial in Near Mint condition. The effect of the brushed metallic silver dial with the gold accents within the gold case simply has terrific eye appeal.

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

Under the hood of this Admiral is a Longines 17-jewel automatic cal. 501 movement with Kif ultra-flex shock protection and semi-quickset date. This high-grade movement was introduced into Longines arsenal with their acquisition of the Record Watch Company in the early 1960s and the movement serial, along with the watch case numbers, date this Admiral to 1968 according to Longines’ excellent Heritage department.

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

With a full size 35mm heavy solid gold water resistant case, this great vintage Admiral is priced less than a lot of comparable steel models from other fine Swiss houses of this period. Don’t miss your chance to make it yours and spend the rest of this golden summer in fine vintage style!

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Watches For Sale section — you’ll be glad you did!  SOLD

1950s Tissot Visodate Honeycomb

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — 1950s Tissot Visodate w/Beautifully Patinaed Honeycomb Dial

It might be August but no dog this lovely watch — on the contrary, this mid-1950s Tissot Visodate is a compact package packed with many of the special elements that make vintage wristwatches so unique & pleasing. Most outstanding, of course, is its beautifully patinaed honeycomb or waffle dial. The even, cafe au lait patina is elevated even further by the application of gold Explorer-style numerals and a framed date window with black & red “roulette” date wheel, the latter an extra nice bit of true vintage eye candy. 

1950s Tissot Visodate Honeycomb

Inside the classically proportioned 34.5mm x 44mm all-stainless screw-back case, which shows nary a polish with razor sharp chamfers to the sweeping lugs, beats an in-house Chs. Tissot & Fils manual wind caliber 27B-621with an exceptionally fine micro-adjustable balance wheel.  It’s a solid little 16-jewel engine and running strong.

1950s Tissot Visodate Honeycomb

On this wrist this Tissot Visodate is a real vintage charmer and proves once again that a classic watch needn’t cost an arm and a leg to deliver deep satisfaction to its owner. Priced perfectly for the aspiring vintage collector, as well as the savvy veteran, this Tissot punches well above its weight and is the very definition of ever-stylish bang for your buck.

1950s Tissot Visodate Honeycomb

Check it out now on the always hopping Omega Forums’ Watches for Sale section for many more pictures and complete condition report. But hurry — there aren’t many bargains left in the vintage watch world but a well-preserved beauty like this Tissot Visodate is certainly one of them!  SOLD

Vintage Rolex 6609 Thunderbird Datejust

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage Rolex ref. 6609 Thunderbird Datejust

The beautiful June weather is finally here so now’s a good time to pick out a suitable watch companion for the summer… and all the seasons thereafter, for that matter. My vote would have to go this timelessly elegant yet sporty Rolex Datejust Turn-O-Graph aka the Thunderbird.

Vintage Rolex 6609 Thunderbird Datejust

One of Rolex’s most interesting and innovative designs, this classic model features a fine engine-turned elapsed time bezel that rotates just like those on the Submariner or GMT. But being cast in solid white gold this Turn-O-Graph bezel is obviously a more discreet and under-the-cuff option for the well dressed man who also enjoys his fair share of sport.

Vintage Rolex 6609 Thunderbird Datejust

This example, an early reference 6609, dates from 1958 and has a slightly later 1960s-era Tritium dial that is in absolutely stunning condition with wonderful matching patina to the lume plots and hands. Strap this versatile and distinctive classic Rolex Datejust Thunderbird on and you’ll be ready for office, holiday or motoring to the beach on weekends in equally fine style.

Vintage Rolex 6609 Thunderbird Datejust

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and full condition report over at Vintage Rolex Forum’s stalwart Market section — it’s getting hard to find good Datejusts at reasonable prices these days and this one checks both boxes!  SOLD

Rolex Joyeria Riviera 6284

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale – Vintage Rolex 18k PG ref. 6284 JOYERIA RIVIERA

There’s rare and there’s truly rare. That word is thrown around a lot these days in the vintage watch world but this sweet vintage Rolex definitely earns the honorific. Just one look at the double-name dial on this beautiful pink gold ref. 6284 will tell you why. Two little words — Joyeria Riviera.

Rolex Joyeria Riviera 6284

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Back in the day Joyeria Riviera was a top Cuban jewelry retailer, the Tiffany’s of Havana if you will, and they were forced to move their operations to Puerto Rico when Fidel Castro and the communists took power in 1960. Therefore, finding a pre-Castro Rolex signed with their name is a major coup, much less a lovely pink gold semi-Bubbleback Oyster Perpetual in such wonderful condition. Click here for a great Rolex Passion write-up for further reading on the great history of Joyeria Riviera.

Rolex Joyeria Riviera 6284

Obviously the main event on this stunner is the original factory printed honeycomb guilloche dial with pink gold dial furniture that has aged beautifully and varies in tone from an off-white ivory color to an almost butter yellow depending on the light and angle. The oh-so-rare Joyeria Riviera signature is perfectly intact below Oyster Perpetual and on the wrist this amazingly warm toned double-signed dial in this lovely pink gold watch is an absolute knockout!

Rolex Joyeria Riviera 6284

As you can find out by doing just a little research online, a Joyeria Riviera-signed Rolex is a real blue-chip purchase with historic significance and the trajectory for these elite double-name watches has only been ever upwards. This is a special chance to add a genuinely rare watch to your collection that instantly commands respect from Rolex and non-Rolex aficionados alike. So don’t miss it, as these Joyeria Riviera Rolexes simply don’t appear that often.

Newly offered at an AMAZING CRISIS REDUCTION — Contact me for more info on this beautiful Joyeria Riviera Rolex  SOLD

CLICK HERE FOR MANY MORE PICTURES AND COMPLETE CONDITION REPORT

Men’s Cologne — Monsieur de Givenchy by Givenchy (Original)

This is a review for the original Monsieur de Givenchy, which was in production for about a million years before being reformulated and moved to the Les Mythiques line of classic Givenchy fragrances from years gone by. I don’t have any experience with the new Les Mythiques version, although I do know it is certainly streamlined and tweaked ingredient-wise and complaints about its sillage and longevity are prevalent amongst the cognoscenti. That said, the original Monsieur de Givenchy is not exactly a powerhouse either. Nor was it meant to be.

One of the granddaddies of masculine perfumery, Monsieur de Givenchy was the famed designer’s first offering for men and debuted way back in 1959. Along with Chanel Pour Monsieur (1955 ) and Dior’s Eau Sauvage (1966), Givenchy’s Monsieur could be said to form a perfect triptych of “modern” mid-century aromatic citrus fragrances from which all successors have borrowed and taken inspiration. Interestingly nowadays not quite as highly regarded as those other two icons of masculine perfumery, for my money Monsieur de Givenchy is certainly more wearable today for the average guy than the more senior Pour Monsieur, which has a much heavier powder vibe to go along with its lemon-floral mix. It is also decidedly less sweet than Eau Sauvage, leaning less on fruity citrus than the Dior and more on bracing lemon and lemon verbena for its top notes. Monsieur de Givenchy’s other real signature element is its reliance on a crisp and classy carnation that fills out the heart after the initial eye-opening lemony astringency of the top notes.

There are also the traditional lavender, sandlewood and oakmoss accords very subtly undergirding the base of what is really a very bright and invigorating composition overall. Interestingly, the nose behind this mid-century masterpiece was Francis Fabron who was primarily a woman’s fragrance composer. But Monsieur de Givenchy is unmistakably masculine with its aura of restrained elegance and overall high end barbershop vibe. It’s just about the perfect morning tonic after a shower and a shave and is particularly good in warm weather when heavier colognes become unpleasant to wear. In fact, while labeled an Eau de Toilette, Monsieur de Givenchy is similar to Eau Sauvage in that it essentially performs at a traditional Eau de Cologne strength while maintaining superior natural ingredients and a beautifully structured overall composition. So sillage and projection are moderate and unintimidating while longevity is relatively fleeting at around 4 hours, the last 1 hour as pretty much a skin scent. But then if you are looking for power there’s always Monsieur’s patchouli-soaked bad boy brother Gentleman. It’s notable that Givenchy cleverly played up the concept of a different scent for day and night in their marketing by pairing the two bottles in the ads after Gentleman was introduced in the more ballsy ’70s.

If you’re looking for a sophisticated masculine that pairs well with a crisply ironed cotton shirt at the office or at brunch with friends and family or perhaps a new flame, Monsieur de Givenchy is a classic choice that really hasn’t aged a bit in its long life. It makes a great changeup from most modern masculines, as there isn’t a hint of sweetness or the aquatic and yet it is still “fresh” in the best sense of the word. And since the original is my only experience with it, I’d recommend picking up a vintage bottle on eBay, where they are generally under $80 for a 2 ounce spray and less for a splash. You certainly could try the new Les Mythiques interpretation and at around $40-something for 3.3 ounces from discount retailers like Amazon it’s definitely much less pricey. But I’ll be sticking with the original version for as long as it doesn’t get too crazily expensive on the secondary market. I like Monsieur de Givenchy just the way he always was. Why mess with a classic?

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — 1960s Movado Cal. 95M Chrono w/Stunning Inverse Panda Dial

It”s time to kick off April in stunning style — no fooling. To make that happen I have on offer, a beautiful 1960s Movado caliber 95M chronograph with coveted black dial with contrasting white registers, aka an Inverse Panda dial, one of the most sought after chronograph layouts in vintage watches.

1960s Movado Cal. 95M Chrono Panda

The unique 95M in-house chronograph movement was one of Movado’s crowning achievements and it operates in a funky “upside down” manner, with the bottom pusher starting & stopping the timer and the top pusher resetting it, likely due to its innovative modular design. Also unusual is that the minute counter is calibrated for a full 60 minutes as opposed to the more common 30-minute register found on most chronos.

1960s Movado Cal. 95M Chrono Panda

Further adding to this watch’s allure is the all-stainless steel screwed case, which features an inner anti-magnetic dust cover and was manufactured by FB (Francois Borgel/Taubert & Fils) who also manufactured water resistant cases for Patek Phillipe, Vacheron and Mido among others.

1960s Movado Cal. 95M Chrono Panda

But the real star of the show is the beautiful glossy black dial with contrasting white sub-registers and silver print. That super legible layout gives this 35mm Movado loads of class and wrist presence even with its modestly sized proportions. This 1960s stunner is simply a big league addition to any vintage chronograph collection and is probably still undervalued in the grand scheme of things. Once you behold that Inverse Panda dial and strap it on you’re bound to fall in love with it — just like I did!

1960s Movado Cal. 95M Chrono Panda

Check out the complete ad now over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Watches for Sale section for many more pictures and complete condition report. I doubt it will last so you better pounce!  SOLD

1968 Vintage Rolex 1600 Datejust Smooth Bezel

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — 1968 Vintage Rolex 1600 Datejust Smooth Bezel

It may be a new year but my obsession remains great vintage watches. Which is why I’m very happy to make my first offering of 2019 a classic and uncommon reference 1600 Rolex Datejust with smooth bezel in all-stainless steel.

1968 Vintage Rolex 1600 Datejust Smooth Bezel

This 1600 DJ dates from 1968 and features a super clean silver sunburst dial with original Tritium luminous and a minimally polished case. The special thing about the 1600 Datejust is its smooth, Explorer-style bezel. This reference was also made in much fewer numbers than the more ubiquitous fluted white gold bezel 1601 and the castellated steel 1603.

1968 Vintage Rolex 1600 Datejust Smooth Bezel

On the wrist all those clean lines translate into an absolute knockout. Even better, the stalwart caliber 1575 Chronometer movement has been recently serviced for maximum future reliability and faithful service for many more years to come.

1968 Vintage Rolex 1600 Datejust Smooth Bezel

Supplied with a very attractive and suitable shell cordovan strap this Datejust is a beautiful synthesis of sportiness and elegance. Its timeless design is just as handsome and masculine today as it was when it was manufactured those 50 years ago. So start the year in classic vintage Rolex style and make this great Datejust your own today!

1968 Vintage Rolex 1600 Datejust Smooth Bezel

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at Vintage Rolex Forum’s Market section. You’ll be glad you did.  SOLD