First of all please note that this review is for the original formula of Givenchy Gentleman, which debuted way back in 1974, and not the recent reformulated 2017 release where the label actually reads “Gentleman Givenchy.” I haven’t tried that new, fruitier version so I can’t comment. What I can say is that original Givenchy Gentleman has become one of my favorites and a go-to in my rotation despite the fact that it’s approaching the 45th anniversary of its creation by Paul Leger. So much so that when I saw they were reshuffling it to the Les Parfums Mythiques category where old Givenchy frags are put out to pasture I bought several back-up bottles in case they decided to water it down.

While there is the usual waxing rhapsodic on fragrance forums about the vintage formulation, the modern iteration of Gentleman up until the shift over to Les Parfums Mythiques is still pure class (haven’t tried the LPM version but being so recently in production unlike, say, Xeyrus, I’m hopeful that they haven’t messed it up). From it’s distinctively simple “pharmacist”-style flaçon and spare modernist silver label with black Garamond lettering to the yellow-hued juice inside one immediately gets that “old school” vibe. But the fragrance itself, while certainly created a long time ago, remains timeless. Yes, it’s from the 1970s and yes its dominant note by far is patchouli. However, this is a cologne for people who only think they hate patchouli but have never smelled a well rendered, highly natural version of it. Along with Giorgio of Beverly Hills and the sadly discontinued Moods Uomo by Krizia, Gentleman has the best front and center patchouli note in the mass marketed fragrance business. But unlike Giorgio’s very forward honey-lime notes or the pervasive rose of Moods sweetening the deal, Gentleman’s patch is really both the soloist and the orchestra. Yes, there are the usual “woody aromatic” embellishments listed in the notes pyramid such as cedar and oakmoss but those seem faint to non-existent to my nose, as does the civet, which may have been phased out due to IFRA prohibitions. There is still a nice vetiver playing its part, a creamy orris root binding things together and some semi sweet-ish green spice notes likely from the listed tarragon, as well as a subtle rose note in the background. And the base definitely has a wonderfully long lasting leather note.

But again, this fragrance is all about the patchouli, which is both dirty and clean and goes on forever. When you first spray it on you may be alarmed — this Eau de Toilette is very concentrated — but hang in there for a minute and the fragrance instantly develops into an embracingly warm, inexpressibly elegant concoction cocooning you in pure masculine vibes. A certain kind of woman might get away with wearing Givenchy Gentleman just like she might get away with occasionally wearing your well-worn cotton Oxford shirt but there’s no denying this is a man’s cologne through and through.

I don’t find it overbearing at all after that opening application but it’s probably not really suitable as an office scent according to today’s sensibilities. Unless, of course, you’re the boss, then this bad boy is just perfect for laying down the law and projecting authority from beneath a pinstriped suit. For the evening I find it magic, giving off a perfectly relaxed yet elegant vibe — think unbuttoned crisp white shirt — and garnering compliments even from supposed patchouli haters. Hippy stuff this ain’t. Casual day wear is also fine and it pairs as well with weekends in the country as it does with nights on the town. You wouldn’t think a somewhat ballsy classic like this would be good in the summer heat but it is, with it’s rather camphorous citruses coming to the fore and making for a surprisingly refreshing scent on a hot day. And of course it performs beautifully once the cooler weather comes around. Sillage is potent and noticeable from a fair distance but it is not as dominant as something like Antaeus, Pour Lui or the hairy chested Giorgio, all of which I really enjoy wearing. But Gentleman is simply a more versatile cologne and doesn’t quite require the commitment of those ’80s powerhouses. Perhaps that shows the evolution of a slightly raunchy but still suave 1970s style into out and out “loud” (but also really enjoyable to my nose) million ingredient ’80s style masculines. Longevity is fairly amazing at a good 10 hours on my usually quick fading skin and many more than that on clothing.

This is about as far away from today’s aquatic and ambroxan-laden masculines as you can get so definitely try before you buy if you’re not already into old school stuff. But that also makes it a big plus if you can get into it, as you’re not likely to smell this on every Tom, Dick and Harry. I’d say it skews older but any guy with confidence should be able to pull it off. If you already like patchouli it’s a no brainer to add to your repertoire and likely you’ll find it a big upgrade from what gets passed off as a high end patchouli frag these days. For the uninitiated this is one of the best utilizations of that much maligned herb and a terrifically natural smelling composition all around so it makes for a fine intro. And at under 60 bucks for a big 3.3 oz bottle Gentleman remains a very good value especially considering just how little you need to use to create a long lasting effect. 2 to 3 sprays are really ample despite the EDT concentration.

Givenchy’s original Gentleman remains an aptly named classic and it’s my fervent hope that it remains unaltered and in production no matter what modern tastes require the great fashion house to put out there with similar monikers. For me there’s only one Givenchy Gentleman and it’s still a winner after all these years.