Brooklyn…home to the newest cultural renaissance here in NYC. Visit us and you’ll find a treasure trove of artists, artisans, and craftsmen, all producing some pretty magnificent stuff. And of course, you’ll see beards. Lots of beards. But while many of our beard-wearing brethren here in Brooklyn wouldn’t know a razor if they fell on one, a few of us actually do shave! I remember watching my Dad shave as a kid, fascinated by what I saw as one of the simplest and purest embodiments of maleness. The guy could ski double black diamonds with ease, fix any broken down car by himself, and seemingly attract the attention of any beautiful young woman (often 20 years his junior.) So needless to say, as a kid I paid close attention, and I came to see shaving as a symbol of the conflation of masculinity and refinement. I mean seriously, can you picture James Bond with a beard? Not happening.
Category Archives: Guy Style
What we’ll be wearing this Fall — Baracuta windbreakers
It’s mid-September and there’s finally a chill in the air here in NYC. And that means that soon it will be the best time of year for a man sartorially speaking: Fall, when we get rid of shorts and short sleeves and welcome back light jackets, sweaters and corduroy pants from their Summer banishment deep in our closets. One thing that is de riguer for Autumn’s changeable moods is a good windbreaker. In our opinion, some of the very best windbreakers you can add to your wardrobe are made by Baracuta of England.
Founded in pre-war Manchester and now part of the quality portfolio of WP Lavori In Corso of Bologna’s brands, the classic Baracuta G9 was popular with the post-War Ivy League golf and preppy set. But it really came into its own as a mid-20th Century icon when James Dean wore a blazing red one as Jim Stark in Rebel Without a Cause, a symbol of his fiery and conflicted character if ever there was one.
What we’re wearing…Shirts by David Reeves
Some of the finest clothing I’ve found in a long time is made by David Reeves, of David Reeves Bespoke here in New York. Having cut his teeth on Savile Row at famous houses like Gieves & Hawkes and Richard James, David struck out on his own here in NYC, and has been making beautiful things ever since.
Mr. Reeves is probably best known for his finely crafted bespoke suits, but today I’m going to focus on his shirts. Like everything from David Reeves, the thing that distinguishes his shirts from the rest of the pack is attention to detail. The construction is flawless, and he throws in very cool (and labour intensive) flourishes like hand gathering of the sleeves at the cuffs, instead of a traditional pleat. Or, say you happen to order a check pattern shirt…you can count on the patterns lining up flawlessly at every seam, pocket, and cuff. These may seem like little things, but they make a huge difference in how the shirt looks on you. The details are so precise that they’re not something most people will readily see, but they’ll feel them, and that’s true tailoring.
Guy Style–Lift your lid
Man cannot live by baseball caps alone (god forbid). That’s why the sophisticated gent knows that a well-selected hat can spice up a fellow’s wardrobe from the top down. Take some of these classics from Bailey, which can help you look stylin’ without breaking the bank:
The venerable Goorin Bros. also has a wide range of sporty and handsome chapeaus for the modern gentleman:
If you’re really serious about your headgear, you can splurge for a classic high end brand like a Borsalino. But I find Bailey and Goorin Bros. cover similar styles as that admittedly great brand while still leaving some drinking money in your pocket. Plus a good hat is a bit like a potato chip: bet you can’t buy just one. A hat will change the way your entire outfit appears and having several in the repertoire is a fine idea for maximum versatility. And with the cooler weather coming along, it’s a natural time to debut your new lids while keeping your melon warm.
The best place I’ve seen for Bailey on the Web is San Diego’s Village Hat Shop, which has a great selection and free delivery for orders over $75 clams. (For whatever reason, you can only shop Bailey’s current seasonal collection at their own site and not their full range–odd and none too clever.) In contrast, Goorin Bros.’ site is excellent and all you need to buy one of their products: you can shop it direct and there is a ton of stuff to browse, both old & new. Or you can visit one of Goorin’s many shops across North America and try them on in person.
Either way, pick a lid that suits your own inimitable style and soon when folks see you comin’ they’ll be saying: Hats off to ya, you stylish devil!
What we’re wearing – Grenson Boots
A good boot is hard to come by. Lots of my old faithful brands have moved their production facilities to China and the quality has suffered terribly, making them a waste of time and money. Others brands are just too specific. One a bit too dandified, another too utilitarian, making it difficult to find a brand you trust to suit your sartorial needs across the board. But there is one company that consistently hits on all cylinders, and that company is Grenson. A UK outfit founded in 1866, Grenson has a good long history in the shoe-making business. Nearly knocked out in the early-mid 20th century (and saved by the need for soldiers boots in WWII), Grenson has gone on to thrive, and today makes a wide range of stunning high-end boots and shoes.
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Blog of the day– Jake’s Rolex World Magazine
If you want to get heavy into Rolex ephemera, pop culture and the wonderful personalities who wore Rolex throughout history, Jake’s Rolex World Magazine is a fine place to while away the hours. From the brand’s founder Hans Wilsdorf to the ultra cool ambassadors like James Bond, Jackie Stewart, Steve McQueen and (believe it or not) Martin Luther King, Jr., Jake has a passion for rooting out the many tales in Rolex’s storied history and the pivotal players who wore the watches. We’re not sure where he gets the time or the energy for such a massive amount of well done posts but our hat’s off to him–way to go, Jake, you’ve got a real cool blog!
The bike we want – The MO-05 Swiss Army Bike
Military surplus is often an endless well of cool and unique stuff. Built with an eye towards efficiency, function and practicality, the designs of military products often end up being more beautiful than their civilian cousins, either in there stark simplicity or their necessary complexity, whichever happened to be called for in that particular instance. The MO-05 Swiss Army Bike embodies this complex beauty.
Starting back in 1905, the Swiss Army maintained a bicycle infantry unit. Actually, they weren’t the only ones but that’s a different story. Bikes were used in the same way horses were, for patrols, etc. The Swiss Army still uses bikes today, although the infantry unit was disbanded in the early 2000’s.
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The Rolex Explorer–A watch for all seasons
With its black face and instantly recognizable military-style luminous “3” “6” “9”, the ultra-legible Explorer goes perfectly with anything you might be thinking of wearing, from hiking attire to formal wear. (Let’s face it: James Bond may be able to pull off a Submariner with a tux but you probably shouldn’t try it.) With no prominent rotating bezel like the Sub or GMT-Master, as well as a thinner case, the Explorer fits under a French cuff as easily as any dress watch in the Oyster line. But it still looks tough and ready for action.
Yes, all it does is tell time. But it does that beautifully, accurately and with unmatched versatility. While Rolex has lately upsized the Explorer to a beefier 39mm, I strongly prefer the traditional 36mm diameter. Don’t mess with a classic.
For more great reading on the origins of the Explorer, check out this terrific post over at Vintage Rolex Forum from one of the big Dutch collectors. It’s a truly great read.
Accessories we like — John Hardy leather bracelets
Guy jewelry is a tricky thing and some are of the (old) school of thought that it should be watch & wedding ring max. But that seems a bit staid by MFL standards. There’s more than one way at a time to express the complexity of our personalities. Sometimes we want to show our inner tribal warrior off even if we’re wearing a button down Oxford and a tie. Thanks to my better half giving me one for our anniversary (an incredible gift, BTW) I feel that John Hardy leather bracelets can do that job quite nicely. Not all the designs are winners but a bracelet like the Dayak is nothing but masculine and will complement your tats (or naked hairy wrist) to a T.
The interplay of leather and sterling silver is based on the traditional warrior designs of the Dayak tribe of Borneo, so you can grab a little of that ethos vicariously when you strap on the Hardy version. (You can read more about the badass Dayaks here but suffice to say you don’t want to start talking smack about their jewelry lest you end up with your head on display in their hut.)
If you want a splash of color, a Station Bracelet in red or green makes a nice statement.
These bracelets aren’t cheap by any means at $275-$495 for most of the leather collection. But their solid silver pieces are exponentially more expensive so these are a good way to treat yourself to a bit of tribal toughness that can be worn everyday without breaking the bank. Just don’t wear the ones with magnetic clasps on the same wrist as your watch, as they are quite strong. Unless your watch is an IWC Ingenieur or Rolex Milgauss, that is.
Their official site is here: John Hardy for Men. They also produce a wide range of cufflinks, full metal bracelets, rings and necklaces, as well as stuff for the women & kids.
You can also purchase John Hardy accessories at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.
Respect the ‘Stache
We here at MFL are big fans of the mustache. Our own tomvox is currently sporting one and I’ve been know to grow one from time to time. I think even Graham has one of those David Niven jobs on his upper lip but he’s always on the road and I haven’t seen him for weeks.
No matter, if you’re burnt out on your beard during these hot summer months, you may want to give the Magnum, P.I. look a shot.
On second thought, “The Selleck” is a pretty advanced ‘stache so maybe you should work up to that bristly wonder with a little practice lest you hurt your face.
We’re not sure how the classic stand alone mustache got such a poor fashion rep. Too many gold chain-wearing over-tan St. Tropez types in banana hammocks? The Village People? 70s porn? But we feel it’s a fine statement to make on the confident man’s upper lip. The squares may give you some confused looks but trust us, the ladies like ’em. And really, are you gonna follow the herd or be your own man?
The How To: Grow a beard for something like a week so you eliminate that awkward “shadow lip” phase and then shave and shape to your taste. You can keep a soul patch for support if you’re feeling vulnerable. But eventually try to make the leap to only the furry upper lip. Wahl trimmers can give you whatever shape and level of bushiness you’re looking for.
In the meantime, have a look at these other guys along with Magnum and tell us again that the ‘stache is not cool…
And be careful with this last one–unless you ride a big Harley or a horse, you may not be able to pull it off: