Category Archives: Guy Style

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — June selection

Got a very cool one on offer this month: a rare original early 1960s Hamilton Ventura. This solid 14k gold watch is one of the iconic designs in the vintage watch world, so much so that the modern incarnation of Hamilton, part of the Hydra-like Swatch Group, makes about a million homage versions. But accept no substitutes — this here Ventura is the real deal with it’s then-cutting edge caliber 505 electrical movement inside the gorgeous body, an innovation that prefigured the tuning fork and quartz revolutions to come.

Ironically, betting the future on their proprietary electrical movement and largely ceasing conventional mechanical watch production essentially doomed the historic watchmaking company from Lancaster, PA. The electric movement, never a particularly precise timekeeper, was quickly rendered obsolete by the Bulova Accutron and the coming of the quartz age and by 1969 the company had ceased all US operations. But they remain one of the legendary names in horology history and the Ventura is a timeless classic. You might say it’s fit for a King.

~~Check out the complete ad with many more pics and full description of this rare all-original Ventura over at Timezone’s Sales Corner.~~ SOLD

Watch Collector’s Notebook — Tissot “Navigator” World Time

The advent of Rolex’s GMT-Master in 1955 was the culmination of a creative arms race in the Swiss watch industry to come up with unique complications for telling time in two different timezones. The newly-dawned jet airliner age enabled intercontinental travel to explode in popularity and created demand for this complication in a wristwatch . A dual timezone watch, therefore, became a tool for the sophisticated world traveling gentleman or international man of action and was marketed by the manufacturers to exactly that putative clientele. Among the most enduring alternatives to an extra fixed 24-hour hand was the concept of rotating time zone discs or bezels with the names of cities representing the world’s different temporal regions. And among the handsomest and most clever produced during this burst of invention was the original Tissot “Navigator” World Time watch, which debuted in 1953 and therefore predates the GMT-Master by a few years.

Featuring an oversized 36mm x 44mm beefy lug screwed steel case (sometimes also found in gold top or solid gold) the Navigator achieved its dual time capabilities via an inner rotating world time disc that was calibrated to the 24-hour scale on the face of the watch. Continue reading →

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — May selection, Pt. II

The word “rare” gets thrown around a lot when folks are pitching vintage watches. But this circa 1952 Omega Seamaster definitely fits the definition: Jumbo 36mm case (90% are 34mm during this era), rare reference that is extremely hard to find (2521), solid 18 karat pink gold with screwed water resistant case, and Chronometer-certified movement and original signed “waffle” dial (very uncommon for a 1950s Seamaster, as almost all the Chronometers for Omega during this era are in the Constellation line). Run these attributes through the Google and you won’t find many matches. In fact, I’ve yet to see another 2521 in pink gold. So not an inexpensive watch by any means. But, as the old saying goes, find me another.

~~NOW ON SALE! Rare Vintage Omega ref. 2521 18k Pink Gold JUMBO Seamaster Chronometer — Click here for the Timezone Showcase ad with complete description and many more high res pictures.~~ SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — May Selection

Got another cool vintage beauty on offer this month: a 1960s Eterna-Matic KonTiki 20 with stunning blue dial. These Kontiki 20s with classic tapered lug case are terrific value for money: all-stainless steel case with screw down crown & back, good size at 37mm and high grade ETA-based automatic movement with Eterna’s own patented 5 ball bearing rotor mount (hence their logo) and date complication. This example even comes with its original hard-to-find brick link bracelet. All that for well under $1000 bucks? Adds up to an affordable and rugged watch that is frankly still undervalued and represents maximum vintage style for not a lot of money.

~~FS: Vintage Eterna-Matic KonTiki 20 w/ Beautiful BLUE Dial & Original Bracelet (click for the full Timezone Sales Corner ad with complete description & many more pix)~~ SOLD

What we’re wearing this Spring/Summer — Timberland Earthkeepers Hookset Slip Ons

At last the warm weather has arrived to the New York Metropolitan Area! (Well warmer anyway… but dammit, it’s sure to come.) And that means it’s time to think about Spring & Summer footwear after a long winter of being trapped in heavy boots and wool socks. One of the most comfortable casual light duty slip ons we’ve found comes from Timberland, which has branched out from their all boots, all the time image and come up with an impressive and fashionable variety of lighter canvas-based designs. Their Earthkeepers Hookset Handcrafted Slip Ons were made for warm nights on the beach and casual dining and bar hopping al fresco.

With a variety of expressive, washed canvas colors and a reasonable $75 price tag, the Hookset continues the Earthkeepers line’s original concept of utilizing sustainable and recycled materials to make up as much of their shoes as possible. So you can actually feel good about purchasing more than one pair to suit your different outfits because the canvas that makes up the body of the shoe is certified organic natural fiber and the sole and footbed is made of natural slip-resistant latex.

Now that virtuous manufacturing is all well and good but these Hookset Handcrafted Slip Ons are also mega comfortable and just as cushy on the concrete as on the dunes. They breathe well and they feel good with or without socks. Looking good, feeling good and doing good? That’s a win-win-win for these cool shoes.

You can peruse & purchase the entire Earthkeepers line at Timberland.com and also find the Hooksets at a discount through Amazon Prime. I bought mine at the new Williamsburg location of Brooklyn’s own Soula on North 3rd, a great addition to one of the fastest growing shopping streets around.

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — April Selection, Pt. II

OK, so I found something else to offer this month after all. And boy, is it a beauty — a classic 1967 Breitling Navitimer with gold plated case/steel back and beautiful original “Twin Jet” dial. Very hard to find this iconic pilot’s chronograph in such nice all-original condition, as these dials are prone to moisture damage from dodgy water resistance.

FS: ~~Vintage 1960s Breitling ref. 806 Navitimer w/Beautiful “Twin Jet” Dial~~ — Click here for complete description and many more images. SOLD

Watch Collector’s Notebook — Vintage Breitling 1809 “Jumbo” Cosmonaute

“Jumbo” is a relative term in the vintage watch world. For example, you can have “Jumbo” IWC dress watches at 36mm and “Jumbo” Omega Constellations and JLC Memovoxes at 37mm. But in the (big) case of the first generation Chronomatic tool watches that Breitling produced in the late 1960s and early 70s, that adjective is well-earned, no air quotes required.

Take one of the more attractive Breitling Chronomatic designs, the reference 1809 Cosmonaute. At 47mm x 47mm the 1809 and its standard Navitimer brother, the 1806, were the original inspirations for Breitling’s modern-era oversize watches. A true 24-hour watch, the 1809’s hands circle the dial once every 24-hours as opposed to the common once-every-12-hours standard. So when the watch is showing what we normally think of as 6 o’clock it is really indicating Noon. Designed with military time in mind, it takes some getting used to and this way of telling time is certainly not for everyone, as one has to relearn how to read a watch essentially. This limited appeal accounts for the somewhat small production of Cosmonautes over the years, as you can generally find about 10 Navitimers for every one vintage Cosmo. And when you come to own one, trust me, early on you will have to give several extra glances at your wrist trying to figure out the correct time. Continue reading →

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — April Selection

Not a big selection actually as I am mostly keeping what I’ve got at present. But I do have this really handsome dress Tudor from the 1960s for sale. Very cool all-steel, Mad Men look on the wrist with its rare circular dial. Check out the ad on Vintage Rolex Forum’s Market and maybe you’ll choose to put this very stylish and classic vintage watch on your wrist.

~~ON SALE: 1960s Tudor ref. 7965 Small Rose Oyster-Prince w/ Rare Circular Dial~~ — SOLD

Watch Collector’s Notebook — For most new watches, there’s no need to pay retail

With the massive 2014 Swiss watch fair “Baselworld” just completed and all those hot new models being released, it’s easy to get caught up in the excitement and yield to temptation by forking over your hard-earned dough as soon as those beauties become available later this year. And if there’s another watch out there that you’ve been jonesing to own for a while now, you might also be considering going to the brand’s boutique store or authorized dealer and ponying up for it there. But the truth is that for most models (unless money is no object), there’s no real reason to pay full retail for the watch of your dreams. For example, you might consider buying from so-called “gray market” sellers who will offer small discounts over MSRP. But very often they will deliberately leave out such desirable pieces of the new watch package as certain authenticating paperwork and, worse yet, some will even file off serial numbers because these watches have literally gone out the back door of an authorized dealer. Far better in my opinion to do your hunting among like-minded enthusiasts through one of the very high quality and high volume Sales Corners hosted by the major watch forums on the Net. With a little due diligence and patience, you can usually save a significant percentage by buying a pre-owned example from another collector rather than paying dealer prices. Just as with a newish but pre-owned automobile, the prior owner will have taken some of the depreciation out of the price equation, leaving you with a lot more bang for your buck.

One of the largest watch discussion sites in the world, Timezone.com also has an excellent Sales Corner

Continue reading →

Watch Collector’s Notebook — Benrus Sky Chief

On the theory that you can never have enough cool vintage chronographs, here is another little gem that I have known and loved, the Benrus “Sky Chief”. Produced in the post WWII-era by the New York-based Benrus Watch Company and marketed with its evocative name to the aviation-mad public of the late 40s and 1950s, as well as the increased purchasing power of the Western world’s newly beefed up air forces and transatlantic airlines, the Sky Chief is a classic pilot’s chronograph by design.

In its most common iteration, it has 3-registers for constant seconds, minute recorder and 12-hour recorder, the latter complication being a somewhat new development for a mass-produced wristwatch that came to be the standard for most fine chronographs going forward. The usual engine found under the hood was a Venus 178 well before it was adopted by Breitling for their Navitimers in the mid-50s. And a bit later, perhaps because Breitling sucked up almost all Venus production, Benrus used the ubiquitous Valjoux 71/ & 72 column wheel chrono ebauches that would go on to serve the watch industry for so many years. Different alphanumeric codes were engraved on the bridges to indicate which caliber was being used and none of these movements had shock protection at this early date.

Sky Chief with Venus movement