In much the same way that Givenchy’s original Gentleman is essentially a pure pachouli fragrance, Gurlain’s masculine classic Vetiver is, as you would expect, headlined by a sharp and spicy-clean vetiver note above all others purported to be in this Eau de Toilette’s deceptively cluttered-looking fragrance pyramid.  Yes, if you try really hard you can pick out a bit of nutmeg and cedar undergirding the construction of this well made and timeless offering from the legendary house of Guerlain. And perhaps there is a hint of classic fougere citrus-herb-wood notes floating in and out of this woody aromatic beauty, as well as a subtle civet that was probably much more in your face when this benchmark men’s cologne was introduced way back in 1961. But in the modern iteration the civet is nothing more than a subtle binding ingredient and Vetiver gives of zero funky vibes from that famed catlike mammal’s often challenging but prized secretions.

No, what you get is green, grassy, slightly smokey vetiver at its finest, a clean scent easily splashed on after a shower and a shave with polite sillage and projection but a strong manly, outdoorsy quality. Guerlain’s Vetiver should probably be in the fragrance arsenal of any stylish man because it is so pleasing and pleasingly versatile. While particularly appropriate in the warmer months where the lack of sweetness and the juice’s overall bracing astringency is welcome, it is also easily worn in cooler temps. And while the sharp and smoky earthy grassiness characteristic of good vetiver are stimulating to the senses, Guerlain’s Vetiver lacks the sometimes unpleasantly strange and pervasive sharpness and amplified woody overkill of other highly regarded modern descendants like Lalique’s murky Encre Noir and Commes des Garçons aggressive Wonderwood that make those two much more difficult to wear on a regular basis (or maybe there is something about their shared cashmeran accord that I just don’t love). Instead Guerlain’s original is highly versatile, good for the office or the weekend. In fact, if you’re only taking one cologne on an out of town trip with you this Vetiver is a great choice.

That said, I don’t feel like this is the world’s greatest nighttime fragrance for a man. If you’re going directly from work to dinner with that special someone that’s fine and this will certainly do. You won’t smell bad or boring by a long shot, nor will you smell unisex. But Vetiver is only “sexy” in a clean, timeless, classically good smelling masculine way. There are about a million other fragrances I’d rather wear for a night on the town or an intimate evening at home with a special someone. But its day-to-day versatility and ease of wear makes Guerlain’s Vetiver a perennial winner, whatever it may lack in the sensuality department. Projection is moderate although it goes on sharply, and likewise sillage won’t blow anybody out of the room after the initial mildly intense application. Longevity is about 6 hours with the last 2 of them essentially a very pleasant skin scent. I don’t really get a lot of development or change during the life of this cologne, just strong brisk vetiver at the top gradually quieting down and perhaps warming up a bit as it gets into the very similar but more subtle base notes. This is one of the great classics of masculine perfumery and one that every guy should sample at least once. Chances are once you do it’ll find its way into your regular rotation for its timeless appeal, versatility and easy to wear nature. It also happens to be highly affordable despite still smelling totally natural and well made after all these years. The ingredient vetiver is one of the pillars of perfumery and Guerlain’s longtime stalwart is certainly one if its finest, purest exemplars. Vetiver remains an excellent cologne and an ideal way to get to know this all-time classic manly note.