Tag Archives: Watch Info

Watch Collector’s Notebook: Three Special Dial 1960s Omega Seamasters

Arguably more than any other of the great Swiss marques, Omega has always been daring, experimental and graphically innovative in their dial designs. And one could make a very strong case that they were at the peak of their powers in this regard in the 1960s. I first became aware of Omega’s penchant for creativity and purpose built “tool” dials on what would ordinarily have been standard dress models by way of having a Seamaster “Railmaster Official” passed down to me by my father. It, along with his Speedmaster Mark II racing dial, is what got me into vintage Omega, and ultimately vintage watches and watches more generally, in the first place.

Seamaster “Railmaster Official” ref. 165.002, cal. 550, 17 jewels, adjusted 3 positions, circa 1966:

I’m not sure if you’ve ever experienced this with an heirloom-type watch, but I’ve always felt not only grateful to have it but also, I have to admit if I’m being honest, slightly constrained by the aesthetic. While Omega designed this watch (with no small copying of Ball’s famous layout) to sell to the very specific railroad worker market, as well as those who value maximum legibility at a glance (something I do appreciate more as I get older), this dial is not quite my personal style. In other words, if it hadn’t been in the family, I don’t think I would have sought it out and bought it on my own despite its very attractive glossy white “porcelain” finish and bold black enamel numerals.

So, I recently decided to acquire what are essentially the same models of Seamaster but with very different dials that are a bit more in my design wheelhouse. The first is the semi-famous “Speedy Companion”, which might more properly be called the “Soleil Companion”, due to the fact that it not only mimics the legendary Speedmaster Professional’s characteristic luminous plots but also the very uncommon lustrous blue-gray soleil/metallic dial finish very rarely found in certain highly desirable ’60s Speedys.

Seamaster “Speedy Companion” ref. 166.002, cal. 565 (quickset), 24 jewels, circa 1966:

Being a compulsive sort of collector, I was not only thrilled with the Speedy Companion but also left wanting one more from this special era of Seamaster dial designs. The scarce “Albino Technical” really spoke to me, with its hyper-attractive matte white dial, non-luminous black “Speedy” markings and punchy red crosshair and Omega logo. It kind of screams “NASA UNIVAC technician”, at least in my imagination.

Seamaster “Albino Technical” ref. 166.002, cal. 562, 24 jewels, circa 1966:

All three watches have pretty much the exact same, rapidly coming back into fashion 34.5mm cases and yet represent completely differently on the wrist, a delightful tribute to a time when creativity in the Swiss watch industry generally, and Omega in particular, was really at an impressive and perhaps all-time high.

I’ll always be proud and honored to have my father’s “Railmaster Official” and look forward to always keeping it in the family, as it has been for some 58-years and counting. But I’m also really pleased to have now added two other very special and distinct 1960s Seamasters that are truly reflective of my own personal tastes and my pleasure in Mid-century modern design language.

You never know where your collector’s journey will take you in this hobby. But it’s certainly a lot of fun following the various tributaries that spring from the main river of your passion!

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale – Vintage SS Longines ref. 6536-1 w/Breguet Numeral Dial & Bombé Lugs

 

CLICK HERE TO CONTACT ME FOR MORE INFO ON THIS GREAT VINTAGE LONGINES  SOLD

On offer is this great looking circa 1950s Longines reference 6536-1 in a very cool all-stainless steel Bombé lug case and featuring a beautiful all-original Breguet numeral dial with wonderful eggshell patina and café au lait aged radium luminous. This great vintage Longines is in overall Excellent original condition and sports the terrific in-house caliber 19AS full rotor sweep seconds movement under the hood.

At 35 mm wide, this beautifully proportioned mens watch with attractive Breguet dial wears wonderfully well on the wrist and is a really fine example of mid-century Longines design. To my eyes, this case is like a hybrid of a Rolex Bombé with its twisted, sweeping lugs and then a Patek 565, with the very distinctive flat, “non-bezel” bezel.

Makes for some very interesting and eye-catching effects on the wrist, to be sure, and just a super pleasing case shape that works in wonderful harmony with that handsome ivory Breguet dial. Fully serviced in the middle of last year, this classic Longines is running well and ready to be enjoyed by the lucky new owner. Make it yours today!

CLICK HERE TO CONTACT ME FOR MORE INFO ON THIS GREAT VINTAGE LONGINES  SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale – Vintage Favre-Leuba Square Steel BLUE Daymatic “Cioccolatone”

SOLD

Up for sale is this very cool and highly uncommon vintage Favre-Leuba Daymatic with beautiful blue dial and impressive square “Cioccolatone”-style all steel water resistant case. Like most rectangular and square watches, this wonderful late-1960s/early-1970s model wears larger than its 33 x 37mm dimensions might indicate and delivers great wrist presence, as you can see from the photo of it on my 7-inch wrist. The rather heavy and ingeniously engineered steel case features wide, downward sloping beveled edges for a distinctly muscular feel not unlike a smaller version of Heuer’s famous Monaco.

I haven’t seen more than a handful of these “Cioccolatone” Daymatic models and never with this exact case design or a blue dial, making it highly unlikely that you will run into anyone else wearing this watch in the wild. The stunning vertically brushed cobalt blue dial with original luminous also happens to be in Mint condition.

The watch itself appears unpolished and is in Very Good to Excellent overall vintage condition, showing honest wear commensurate with having been worn and enjoyed for most of its long life. The rather over-engineered and quite substantial case design features, I believe, some sort of split-crown method for removing the dial, movement and back from the top case in one piece once the locking ring has been unscrewed and thereby gaining potential access to the movement.

In addition to the signed dial, case and crown, this sporty yet elegant Favre-Leuba also comes with its likely original and period correct signed steel buckle, a nice bonus for the attentive collector. Though increasingly difficult to find, there are still some vintage watches out there where you don’t have to spend crazy money to get a ton of style on your wrist. I’d say this striking Daymatic “Cioccolatone” is proof of that.

CLICK HERE TO CONTACT ME ABOUT THIS SUPER COOL FAVRE-LEUBA DAYMATIC

SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage Heuer Camaro 7220NT Exotic CHOCOLATE Dial

Up for sale is this absolutely stunning vintage Heuer reference 7220NT Camaro chronograph featuring a beautiful Near Mint+ Third Execution Exotic pure Chocolate dial with stunning red Tachy track and orange chrono hands. This example is in overall Excellent original vintage condition for a 50+-year-old watch and, along with its pristine dial, also retains its original brushed sunburst finish on the top of the iconic cushion-shaped Camaro case.

 SOLD

This 7220 Camaro, which Heuer heads more knowledgeable than I have dubbed the 7220NT Third Execution Exotic, has the correct 174,xxx case serial number for this specific iteration of brown dial, which was only made for a very short time.

I have also just had its famed Valjoux 72 column wheel movement fully overhauled for the convenience of the next owner, including replacement of the mainspring, so it’s good to go with all timekeeping and chronograph functions operating as they should.

Everyone seems to rave about the Panda versions of Camaros as the ne plus ultra but having owned both, this stunning and uniformly “tropical” brown dial blows them away, IMO. In fact, the dials on these are not actually “tropical” per se, as the consensus opinion of the experts is that these were born brown… and I’d have to agree!

Personally, I call this one King Camaro and I think when you peruse the pictures in different lighting conditions you’ll see why I do. After all, you find Panda dials on Carreras and Autavias but nothing as unique as this. There is just something so appropriate to the funky Camaro case shape and the late-60s/early-70s ethos that makes a deep brown dial with a red Tachy track and orange chrono hands totally work. And I know the lucky next owner will enjoy the one-of-a-kind style of this cool brown beauty as much as I have. 

 SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage Mido Multifort “Extra-Flat” Gloss BLACK Radial Dial

SOLD

Newly on offer — and now newly REDUCED — is this handsome and uncommon late-1940s/early-1950s Mido Multifort “Extra-Flat” manual winder with wonderful original gloss black dial in classically sized 34mm all-steel FB/Taubert et Fils case.

This lovely midcentury Mido is powered by their high quality caliber 1200A. This cool Multifort “Extra-Flat” also features an all-stainless steel screwed case manufactured by the famed case makers, FB/Taubert et Fils, which also made cases during this era for Patek Phillipe, Vacheron and Movado.

But the main attraction is the glossy black sub-seconds dial with “copper gilt” print and original radium radially positioned Arabic numerals showing lovely patina. Overall, this great little Mido is in Very Good unpolished vintage condition with a black dial that really pops on the wrist and a wearable size that a lot of vintage Midos don’t possess (it’s the same diameter as a Rolex Date for comparison).

A really nice bit of genuine vintage style & quality for not a lot of money in today’s market. Jump on it now before its gone!

 SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Steinhart Ocean One Bronze Dive Watch B&P

Up for sale [SOLD] is arguably one of the best everyday beater watches on the market today — the Steinhart Ocean One Bronze with box & papers and extra unused OEM leather strap & buckle.

This example of Ocean One Bronze features the “faded” greenish-brown elapsed time insert with lume pip, a 42mm solid bronze mid case & bezel with heavy stainless steel screw-in back and a sapphire crystal, as well as signed screw-in bronze crown. All that insures this rugged diver has the same depth rating as a modern Rolex Submariner. The thing I like about this Steinhart, though, is that it’s not just direct copy of a Rolex like so many of their other offerings. Instead, it has its own distinctive style, with horizontally brushed dial that changes in the light from “gray metallic” (as Steinhart calls it) to pure chocolate (which is more accurate, IMO), plus military inspired super Luminova “Explorer”-style quarter Arabics & triangle and large gilt sword hands that glow like a torch.

Under the hood is another quality feature — a rock solid ETA 2824-2 automatic movement with hacking seconds, the same ebauche you’ll find in Swiss watches that cost ten times as much as this bad boy. Bought by me in 2017, this watch has never been opened and still keeps excellent time. With its incredible build quality and scratch resistant bronze case, this is a true dive watch and can handle pretty much anything you can dish out. It’s been with me to the beaches of Mexico and the south of France and is basically a perfect watch to wear when you still want to show some style but don’t feel like flashing your high value pieces. It’s certainly also good as a no thought required daily driver up for any activity from yard work to manning the grill to jacuzzi to scuba. A rather remarkable value-to-quality proposition, this Ocean One is pretty much ready for anything you want to do.  

This big 42mm dive & military-inspired watch is in overall Excellent condition with just a few light marks here and there and the bronze case, crown and bezel are developing a very attractive patina (which can easily be reversed with a light polish if one so wishes). This Ocean One Bronze comes complete with the original box & papers and I am throwing in a brand new unworn Steinhart leather strap with extra signed screwed bronze buckle in addition to the original OEM leather-backed canvas strap with its bronze buckle that I usually wore the watch on. Like the case itself, the canvas strap has also developed some attractive wabi from wear and is nicely broken in without being thrashed. Its olive drab color and canvas texture really make the bronze case pop, IMO.

Click here to contact me about this ultimate daily beater Steiner Ocean One — it’s a one helluva lot of watch of the money!  SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage Heuer Carrera ref. 1153S Silver Panda Dial

It may be the dog days of August but what I’m offering here is more of a thoroughbred race horse — a handsome early 1970s vintage Heuer reference 1153 Carrera automatic-wind chronograph featuring a beautiful Mint first execution silver Panda dial with original wonderfully patinaed Tritium luminous plots.

This example is in overall Excellent vintage condition for a 50-year-old watch and, along with its pristine dial, also features the desirable canted Tachymeter scale in the correct deep gray with white print, as well as the superior Caliber 12 version of Heuer’s pioneering modular “Chrono-matic” micro-rotor chronograph movement.

This 1153 also features an early serial number for the model of 148,xxx, which matches the era of the dial & inner Tachymeter scale. It does sport a 3rd execution handset and while this combination is seen often enough in the wild on these silver 1153s it’s probably safest to assume that the hands were replaced at some point during a service in the watch’s long life, either for the superior legibility they provide compared to the thinner previous two execution handsets or because those first two tended to suffer prematurely degraded lume filling.

Personally, I prefer the fluorescent orange chrono sweep seconds hand over the earlier red for its pop and pizzaz, as well as the easily read, highly luminous “wide boy”-style hands so I’ve always been fine with the combo. Either way, it’s a super stunning vintage chrono on the wrist, both elegant and sporty, as you can clearly see, and it makes a killer addition to any vintage chronograph collection.

Check out this classic and classy vintage Carrera 1153S in full via the very Heuer-centric ChronoTrader sales forum featuring full condition report and many more large pictures or contact me directly for more information.  SOLD

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage Omega ref. 166.073 Seamaster 120 “Deep Blue” Dive Watch

Just listed for sale — this cult classic late 1960s/early 1970s reference 166.073 Omega Seamaster 120 with amazing “Deep Blue” dial. This big steel diver was the next iteration in Omega’s increasingly diverse “professional” divers line during that era, following on from the legendary Seamaster 300 and immediately preceding the famed PloProf. And it features the same sort of rugged build quality as those others with a large all-steel “pontoon” lug case measuring 41mm x 46mm and originally boasting superior water resistance for open water diving.

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

Click for large image gallery

This fantastic Seamaster came to me via trade with a re-done dial and re-lumed hands. So I hunted down a correct period blue Tritium dial in beautiful glossy Near Mint condition. I also sourced a genuine Omega modern Luminova gladiator handset that actually matches quite well, although it will obviously hold its glow for quite a long time unlike the Trit dial and bezel. Additionally, while my watchmaker was swapping out the dial & hands late last year I had him overhaul the very high grade in-house caliber 565 movement.

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

Overall, the watch itself is in Excellent properly restored vintage condition and this big blue beauty is a real stunner on the wrist. In a world of cookie cutter Submariner wannabe divers, the Seamaster 120 Deep Blue stands out from the crowd with its bold, individualistic design and that , applied markers with heavily luminous background and stunning liquid blue dial. And so will you when you strap it on.

Omega SM 120 Deep Blue

Get it now — click here to contact me for more info on this great vintage Omega SM 120 Deep blue! SOLD

Click here for many more photos and complete condition report

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — 1960s Zenith A273 146HP Chronograph

I’m happy to be able to offer another very special watch — this time a very rare and exceptionally attractive vintage Zenith reference A273 3-register chronograph. Just one look at the almost Bauhaus-Inspired fine calibrations on the lovely silver dial of this Zenith tells you that exceptional care was taken in its design, making it as suitable for the scientist as the sportsman.

Zenith A273 146HP Chrono

Click images for full picture gallery

Beneath the oversized 37mm all-steel 3-piece screwed case beats Zenith’s in-house caliber 146HP manual wind chronograph movement. This excellent column wheel chronograph was Zenith’s flagship 3-register caliber before they developed the El Primero automatic chronograph movement later in the ’60s. Note the exceptionally large balance for improved accuracy. It’s also been recently serviced to insure years’ more of faithful performance.

Zenith A273 146HP Chrono

This 1960s A273 has a very modern feel and with the large face it wears extremely prominently and handsomely on any man’s wrist. It definitely makes a cultured and refined statement that few other chronographs do. With the market for high quality vintage chronographs still quite hot I don’t expect this beautiful Zenith to last. So make your move now while its still available and get ready to head into the holiday season in timelessly classic style!

Zenith A273 146HP Chrono 

NOW ON NEW YEAR’s SALE — click here to contact me directly for more info on this great vintage Zenith chrono. SOLD

CLICK HERE FOR MANY MORE PICTURES AND COMPLETE CONDITION REPORT

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — 1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

As August proceeds apace yet another wonderful vintage watch has blown in on the warm breezes — this time an absolutely beautiful Longines Admiral in solid 18k gold from 1968. It’s quite unusual to find Longines dress watches in solid 18k gold from this period, much less with a heavy water resistant polygon screwed back case. To put the cherry on top of the sundae it’s even unpolished and so is nice and thick and displaying its original factory case finishes.

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

This ultra cool swinging ’60s Admiral also features a stunning silver vertically brushed “tapestry” dial in Near Mint condition. The effect of the brushed metallic silver dial with the gold accents within the gold case simply has terrific eye appeal.

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

Under the hood of this Admiral is a Longines 17-jewel automatic cal. 501 movement with Kif ultra-flex shock protection and semi-quickset date. This high-grade movement was introduced into Longines arsenal with their acquisition of the Record Watch Company in the early 1960s and the movement serial, along with the watch case numbers, date this Admiral to 1968 according to Longines’ excellent Heritage department.

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

With a full size 35mm heavy solid gold water resistant case, this great vintage Admiral is priced less than a lot of comparable steel models from other fine Swiss houses of this period. Don’t miss your chance to make it yours and spend the rest of this golden summer in fine vintage style!

1968 18k Longines Admiral Cal. 501

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Watches For Sale section — you’ll be glad you did!  SOLD