Tag Archives: Collecting

Rolex collector’s site of the day — 5513mattedial.com

Vintage Rolex collecting, perhaps more so than any other brand of vintage watch and especially with regards to the Sports models, is very much about the minute variations in the details of a given model line over time. Very often these changes in fonts, for example, occurred in rapid succession as Rolex ramped up production of, say, their Submariner line in response to increased demand for their iconic watches. Therefore, one sees not only relatively big changes in dial printing, such as the switch from red SUBMARINER to white in the 1680 date model or the move away from gilt/gloss dials to matte/white writing in the later 1960s, but also extremely subtle shifts in the basic fonts and printing of otherwise very similar dials that are much harder to keep track of and difficult for the unitiated to see. In the end, a lot of the main factors of a Vintage Rolex Sports watch’s appeal and value come down to hard-to-spot minutiae.

And that’s where a new site like 5513mattedial.com becomes so valuable. Taking a magnifier to the Matte dial non-date Submariners that were produced from the late 1960s until the early 80s, the site’s author, longtime collector Beaumont Miller II, has catalogued the key evolutionary differences in that ultimate Rolex tool watch, the reference 5513 Submariner, during its long years of matte dial production. Now in one place we have a handy collector’s resource that makes clear the key characteristics of Maxi dials, Pre-Comex, and the early Meters-First variations, among others. And as a result of these comprehensive efforts you will see more variety in this “common” model than you previously thought possible.

If collecting Vintage Rolex is all about the details (and it is!), then 5513mattedial.com is an exceptionally handy resource to consult when hunting a white-writing 5513 and determining where its dial falls in the production sequence and if in fact the printing is actually legitimate. Written in an entertaining and self-depricating style, the site is as thorough and specific as they come and shows that by looking closely and analyzing seemingly random minutiae at length, a much greater mosaic comes into view when all the puzzle pieces are finally laid into place. It’s a job well done all around and I strongly recommend it to anyone interesting in collecting these iconic Submariners.

Watch Collector’s Notebook — Benrus Sky Chief

On the theory that you can never have enough cool vintage chronographs, here is another little gem that I have known and loved, the Benrus “Sky Chief”. Produced in the post WWII-era by the New York-based Benrus Watch Company and marketed with its evocative name to the aviation-mad public of the late 40s and 1950s, as well as the increased purchasing power of the Western world’s newly beefed up air forces and transatlantic airlines, the Sky Chief is a classic pilot’s chronograph by design.

SkyChief-1 copy

In its most common iteration, it has 3-registers for constant seconds, minute recorder and 12-hour recorder, the latter complication being a somewhat new development for a mass-produced wristwatch that came to be the standard for most fine chronographs going forward. The usual engine found under the hood was a Venus 178 well before it was adopted by Breitling for their Navitimers in the mid-50s. And a bit later, perhaps because Breitling sucked up almost all Venus production, Benrus used the ubiquitous Valjoux 71/ & 72 column wheel chrono ebauches that would go on to serve the watch industry for so many years. Different alphanumeric codes were engraved on the bridges to indicate which caliber was being used and none of these movements had shock protection at this early date.

Sky Chief with Venus movement

Sky Chief with Venus movement

Continue reading →

The Allure of Military Watches — Dodane Type 21

Aviator’s chronographs are among the most attractive of vintage military watches, as they tend to come in larger cases and have distinctive dial configurations for easy reading during missions. And hey, who doesn’t like a chronograph, right? Among the most storied pilot’s chronos are the Type XX and Type XXI, originally designed by Breguet in the 1950s for the French naval and air forces. Today, issued versions of those original watches, which Breguet produced in very limited numbers despite over a decade of manufacture, are among the most highly prized MilWatches out there and can routinely fetch $20k or more.

Early Breguet Type XX (Image from the excellent ablogtowatch.com)

But the “Type 20” and “Type 21” designations were more of a military specification than a proprietary one, so Breguet was not the only manufacturer to produce these watches for the French armed forces. Which is a good thing for the collector because the “off brands” that were supplied are just about as attractive and can be found in the $2500-3500 range give or take, a helluva lot easier on the wallet. Among the other suppliers (or at least producers) of “Type” aviator cronographs were Auricoste, Vixa and Dodane (Mathey-Tissot also produced what is essentially a Breguet clone but these are both super scarce and damn expensive in their own right). Click here for an excellent overview of French Military Type chronographs hosted over at FinerTimes.com.

DodaneType21-1_edited-3

Since I am the proud owner of a Dodane Type 21, I figure I’ll show it off and go into detail on this model in particular, although it is no better or worse a choice than any of the others in its price range. First off, one of the things that makes a Type 20 or 21 is a flyback feature added to the chronograph mechanism. Continue reading →

The Original Explorer II — Rolex’s Funky Disco-era Classic

Early 1972 1655 Explorer II (non-luminous "baton" sweep seconds)

Early-version 1972 1655 Explorer II with characteristic dial, non-luminous “baton” sweep seconds and Mk II bezel

One of the most iconic vintage Rolexes out there doesn’t even look like a conventional Rolex. Sure, it’s got the classic 3-piece Oyster case — screw-down crown and back, pressure fit bezel — but the 1970s reference 1655 Explorer II shares very little else with its forebears. Most distinctly, the dial and hands are completely atypical for Rolex designs of that or any other era. Often fondly referred to as the “Disco Ball” by certain wags in England, the dial has an abundance of luminous “check” markers as opposed to the standard dots and bars on most Rolex Sports models such as Submariner and GMT, or the classic semi-Arabics layout of its predecessor, the Explorer.

Explorer ref. 1016, ca. 1985

Classic Explorer ref. 1016 — a distant family resemblance at best

So aside from the somewhat standard if oversize triangle at “12” the dial is an absolutely unique departure for Rolex. Upon closer inspection it is clear that the inner sequence of luminous checks corresponds to 12-hour time while the outer sequence is calibrated to the non-numbered odd-hour hashes of the fixed engraved 24-hour bezel.

Original Explorer II caving ad in French from Jake’s Rolex World Blog

It turns out that the original conception for the Explorer II was as a watch for spelunkers (!), with the highly luminous Big Orange 24-hour hand alerting the intrepid cavers as to whether it was day or night outside. Continue reading →

tomvox1′s watches for sale — January Selection

MFL is proud to present links to tomvox1’s ads for vintage watches. These are sales posts you might otherwise have to search the web for or miss entirely before they are already sold. These watches are eclectic, cover a wide range of price points and offer the discerning gentleman the opportunity to acquire quality vintage timepieces that are guaranteed to be authentic and add penache & elan to a man’s wrist & wardrobe.  Most of all, they are backed by one of the world’s foremost collectors and always certain to be accurately and lovingly described down to the last detail. Simply put, you can buy a watch from some other random seller on the Internet with a lot of vague claims and small pictures or you can buy a tomvox1 watch and know exactly what you’re getting before you make the leap.

Vintage 1961 Omega Gold Cap Constellation w/semi-Arabics Pie Pan Dial, cal. 551 — Click here for complete Timezone Sales Corner ad: SOLD

Rare Vintage 1950s Solid Gold LeCoultre Calendar Disc in SQUARE Case — Click here for complete Timezone Sales Corner: SOLD

BIG SALE! Vintage 1920s Solid 14k White Gold Hamilton TONNEAU w/Beautiful Dial — Click here for complete Timezone Sales Corner ad: SOLD

And it’s baaaack: Return of the “Pat Tillman” Submariner

Newly relisted on eBay: Return of the “Pat Tillman” Submariner. And this time with a promise to donate 15% of the proceeds to the Pat Tillman Foundation. Of course, there’s still no eBay donation link or other official endorsement that would guarantee that, so I guess we’ll just have to take his word for it. Would be nice to think so but with the vile and vituperative emails I’ve received from this asshole, I wouldn’t bet on it. Those with nothing to hide do not react to simple queries in that manner. So IMO, don’t believe the hype on any of this seller’s claims. Ever.

The Case of the Questionable “Pat Tillman” Rolex Submariner

PatTillmanSublisting-1Unfortunately, like any hobby that attracts big money, vintage watch collecting has its share of scams and scumbags. For example, and it would be hard to think of a more odious seller angle, this so-called “Pat Tillman Rolex 5513 Submariner” showed its face on eBay the other day. Along with a lot of claims about how this was the heroic Pat Tillman‘s personal watch that he wore in Iraq and Afghanistan before he was tragically killed by friendly fire, there was a song and dance about Mr. Tillman’s Social Security number being engraved on the inside, with his rank and Ranger motto on the outside. And of course the obligatory “Support the Pat Tillman Foundation”… without any link, official endorsement or percentage contribution of the proceeds to said foundation or other veterans’ groups via eBay, which is extremely easy to arrange when you list an item for sale.

Not Really Pat Tillman's Submariner

Probably Not Really Pat Tillman’s Submariner

So I had questions, as any properly skeptical observer would of a big money watch with specially claimed provenance, and they were: Why would Pat Tillman take a 1966 Rolex Submariner into action in Afghanistan when a G-Shock is the preferred equipment these days? Where was the actual provenance that this was the Pat Tillman’s watch, such as a letter from the family and/or an official family representative? Why would Mr. Tillman have engraved his Social inside the caseback — that is a very old fashioned concept that might have been done in 1966 but in 2003? And most importantly, where was a commitment to donating some of the proceeds from this sale to the Pat Tillman Foundation, the absence of which made this an extremely mercenary and unsavory endeavor even if the watch was genuine?

Not Really Pat Tillman's Submariner, back

Probably Not Really Pat Tillman’s Submariner, back

When I raised these questions publicly on a very well known forum, and mind you I didn’t say the watch was phony just that these things seemed incongruous, I received the following blasts of opprobrium from a “Jack Dorsey” in reply:

Let me get this straight, after their loved one was killed in Afghanistan, you would narcissist [sic] enough to ask a grieving family to write a letter about their dead family member in order to satisfy your thirst, and you find nothing wrong with that? …  Have you ever served in the military? Your comments suggest that you haven’t, Because in our world Name, Rank and Serial Number is enough. If Spc Tillman’s social security number is inside that case back, than in all likelihood that is his watch.

And it goes on like that. Not only that but I got wonderfully colorful personal emails from Mr. “Dorsey” and a compatriot (probably the same dude really) named “Jose Corrone” who also commented on the original post, so obviously they were not disinterested parties but in fact the seller(s) of the watch over there in Mullica Hill, New Jersey (an IP search of “Jose” confirmed that proximate location, i.e. close to Philly). I guess I touched a nerve and the only thing these bozos had to come back with was ad hominem, circular logic (If that’s Pat Tillman’s SS# then it’s probably his watch! — agreed, now prove it) and machismo posturing. And shortly thereafter the “Tillman Sub” auction was ended early before it could go to the hammer.

Yes, Pat Tillman was but this watch probably wasn't his

Yes, Pat Tillman was a hero but this watch probably wasn’t his

Now, I like to think that their little scam was made stillborn after a light was shone on these cockroaches who feed on the fame of a dead war hero to sell their questionable goods. But maybe someone less cautious or particular made an outside deal with them thinking he was getting the real thing. Hard to know for sure. But I do know that “Jack Dorsey”, “Jose Carrone” and their loathsome ilk have no place in this hobby. If you can’t defend your watches that you are seeking to profit from (and the spectacular claims you make for them) by any means other than threats, name calling and unsubstantiated bullshit then go back to your day jobs nickel-and-diming widows and mopping out the local porno and leave the watch sales to decent human beings.

As the old saying goes, and just as in all aspects of commerce but especially in collecting vintage watches: be careful — it’s a jungle out there. But in honor of these assholes, let’s all really make a donation to the Pat Tillman Foundation and that way something good will come out of their venality after all.

The Allure of Military Watches (an occasional series)

BenrusTypeII77-7_edited-1

Military-issued wristwatches are one of the hottest categories of collectible vintage watches out there. When we talk about Mil-Watches we are speaking for the most part about timepieces that have been officially issued to a given country’s armed forces as an essential part of a soldier, airman, marine or sailor’s equipment. For example, navy divers may require a dive watch to aid in timing their decompression intervals and pilots may require a chronograph to record mission flight time or monitor gas consumption. Back in the pre-quartz days, these watches were all analog mechanical watches that possessed certain high standards of durability and functionality as required by the needs of a particular branch of the service. Therefore, these older Mil-Watches not only have the standard charm of vintage watches in general but also the mystique of possibly having seen combat or other rigorous military action. It’s no wonder that not only veterans but also those of us who have not been in the military are drawn to the vicarious thrill that an issued military watch can convey, as well as a sense of paying homage to the warriors of days past by the mere act of strapping it on. There’s something about a vintage object with a tale to tell and with the high price of many Mil-Watches nowadays, it’s clear that these special timepieces are telling a very appealing one across a wide spectrum of collectors. Better yet, genuine military watches are immune from the normal aesthetic standards of most other collectible timepieces where Mint Condition is generally the highest standard and finding a desirable watch that has never been worn is akin to finding a Grail. With Mil-Watches, the collector wants to see the use in the watch, the nicks and scars that could well denote combat and adventure. Up to a certain point, the more WABI the better!

It’s not possible to go into every Milwatch out there in in these posts, nor do I have the specific expertise required to do so. Not even close. For that I would recommend starting out with something basic and general like the Concise Guide to Military Timepieces, which, while not the world’s greatest reference book, will give you a general overview of what constitues a Mil-Watch and what’s out there in terms of variety. Even better would be a visit to the Military Watch Resource Forum where everyday you can find informative and spirited conversation on all things Mil-Watch great and small. They also have an excellent sales corner (membership required) where some of the most fantastic pieces crop up in all price ranges.

What I will do is discuss some of the Mil-Watches I have been lucky enough to own to give a small taste of their appeal and hopefully show what makes them special.

Benrus Type II

Benrus Type II, ca. 1977

Benrus Type II, ca. 1977

Continue reading →

tomvox1’s watches for sale — December Selection

MFL is proud to present links to tomvox1’s ads for vintage watches. These are sales posts you might otherwise have to search the web for or miss entirely before they are sold. These watches are eclectic, cover a wide range of price points and offer the discerning gentleman the opportunity to acquire quality vintage timepieces that are guaranteed to be authentic and add penache & elan to a man’s wrist & wardrobe.  Most of all, they are backed by one of the world’s foremost collectors and always certain to be accurately and lovingly described down to the last detail. Simply put, you can buy a watch from some other random seller on the Internet with a lot of vague claims and small pictures or you can buy a tomvox1 watch and know exactly what you’re getting before you make the leap.

Vintage Rolex ref. 1655 Explorer II Straight Hand Freccione — Click here for complete Vintage Rolex Market ad: SOLD

Vintage Rolex ref. 3696 Pink Gold/SS Tropical Bubbleback w/BLACK Dial — Click here for complete Vintage Rolex Market ad: SOLD

Vintage 1950s Omega cal. 355 Bumper Automatic Calendar w/ TÜRLER Dial — Click here for complete Timezone Sales Corner ad: SOLD

Something special: A Chocolate Rolex GMT-Master

Every once in a while, you come across a watch that really gets your juices flowing, just like when you started out and everything was new and fresh. A special piece is exciting to find in the wild and it’s one of the thrills of the hunt when you bag one. I should add here that I am often excited about a lot of different watches I come across because, well, I’m a shamelessly promiscuous watchaholic. But there are flings and then there are the love affairs that last. And for a guy like me who has always had a special place in his heart for the classic Rolex reference 1675 GMT-Master, this one really put a charge in me.

1675GMTChoco-8_edited-3

Do not adjust your monitor–that dial really is that brown. A deep, dark chocolate brown in fact. Now, we know that the early meters-first matte dials for the Red Submariners are famous for their tendency to turn a pleasing “Tropical” brown. But for whatever reason, we see this less on the first series of GMT matte dials. It’s not unheard of, of course, I’ve seen it a few times prior. But it definitely seems more unusual. And to find a dial like this one that is evenly toned and essentially flawless is really a rare thing…

Continue reading →