Category Archives: Vintage Rolex

Watch Collector’s Notebook — Grail mania

If you hang around with watch collectors for any length of time you are guaranteed to hear the word “Grail” mentioned and probably more than once. I don’t know who coined this term for a particularly desirable watch (maybe the late, great Chuck Maddox?) but it has come to be the word of choice for that certain timepiece which most captivates us at a given moment and inspires an obsessive quest to obtain it. Which is not to say that a particular Grail watch remains a constant. On the contrary, the more driven collectors (guilty as charged) will constantly shift their definition of Holy Grail and apply it to multiple watches, especially as their tastes evolve and they wade ever deeper into the seemingly bottomless waters of the watch world.

It might happen that a beginning collector getting into vintage starts out with a particularly handsome Omega dress watch as his Grail but finds himself being attracted to the legendary Speedmaster chronograph line. So, having acquired his lovely dress Omega, he shifts his Grail designation over to the yet-to-be-acquired Speedy Moonwatch. Then, having acquired a conventional Speedmaster, he may learn through research and participation in the various forums about earlier, scarcer versions that were being used at the beginning of the NASA space program and before the design was completely standardized. And so with his classic Moonwatch acquiring mere “daily driver” status, now a pre-Moon straight lug cal. 321 Speedy becomes his new Grail.

Likewise, a budding Military Watch collector may start out feeling very well satisfied with a Benrus Type I or II, no small achievement to be sure. But soon enough, through discussion with other enthusiasts, a hierarchy of MilWatches is revealed to him and he discovers that his well-loved Benrus Type, while highly regarded, is nowhere near the top of the pyramid. Continue reading →

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — July selection, Pt. III

As July winds down to a close it’s my great pleasure to offer one last watch. And it happens to be one of the all time vintage Rolex icons: An early 1960s GMT-Master with gilt/gloss minute track dial, mini 24-hour hand, pointed crown guards case and beautifully faded “Pepsi” bezel insert, with the excellent caliber 1560 GMT chronometer movement under the hood still sporting its original Butterfly rotor.

I’m selling this one on behalf of a friend and I’m excited to be able to do so, as this classic two time zone watch is such an unmolested, honest example and with just enough WABI to show that it has lived a wonderfully full life. Among the 1960s steel Sports models, this early reference 1675 is right up there with the pointed crown guards 5512 chronometer Submariner as the most desirable and beautiful on the wrist. Simply put, if you want pure Vintage Rolex style of extremely high original quality, this is your watch. It’s not cheap, but then the best things in life never are.

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and full description over at the Vintage Rolex Forum’s Market. SOLD

Watch Collector’s Notebook — Rolex Milgauss GV

90% if the time I am a 100% vintage watch guy. They have the vibe and design qualities of days gone by that usually make them much more appealing than their shiny modern counterparts. But once in a while I give in to that new watch temptation and fall for something the manufacturers are offering today. The Rolex Milgauss GV is definitely one of those that turned my head and won my ardent affection.

Like a lot of marques in recent years, Rolex has very cleverly paid homage to designs from their storied past while giving them a modern interpretation, as well as all the technological upgrades available in this era. One of the most successful of these “heritage” pieces is the newest iteration of their famous Milgauss line. Dating back to the mid-1950s, the golden age of Tool Watch innovation, the Milgauss was originally designed to stand up to the large magnetic fields being generated by nuclear and other emerging technologies in the Post War era. This specially designed anti-magnetic timepiece could stand highly magnetic environments of up to 1000 gauss, hence the name, and it was marketed to scientists and technicians whose watches would normally be severely disrupted by such high levels of magnetism. Apparently this watch-buying segment was perceived as significant enough to lead to a plethora of anti-magnetic watches being created, as not just the Milgauss but also IWC’s Ingenieur and Omega’s original Railmaster made their debuts around this time.

Original 1956 ref. 6541 Milguass (Image from Antiquorum)

Despite or perhaps because of the emergence of those competitors, the market was never very strong for the original lightning-hand Milgauss. But Rolex kept with it and redesigned the watch in the middle to late 1960s. With a cleaner, more conventional design, the new 1019 Milgauss seemed a more versatile wristwatch for the professional man of science, while still retaining it’s antimagnetic powers through the continued use of the Faraday cage design. Again, though, the Milgauss line was a poor seller in the overall Rolex catalogue, probably due to its rather specific purpose and slightly premium price over a standard dress model, as well as its then-large 38mm size and thick case. With demand for mechanical watches lagging overall, Rolex discontinued the Milgauss by the early 1980s.

Ref. 1019 with rare double-signed Tiffany Dial (Image from AQ)

However, as with so many of the “unpopular” Rolex of their time — such as the original Explorer II, the Tru-Beat, even the Cosmograph Daytona — their very lack of success and smaller production redounded to their later success once they had been removed from the catalog. Continue reading →

Rolex collector’s site of the day — 5513mattedial.com

Vintage Rolex collecting, perhaps more so than any other brand of vintage watch and especially with regards to the Sports models, is very much about the minute variations in the details of a given model line over time. Very often these changes in fonts, for example, occurred in rapid succession as Rolex ramped up production of, say, their Submariner line in response to increased demand for their iconic watches. Therefore, one sees not only relatively big changes in dial printing, such as the switch from red SUBMARINER to white in the 1680 date model or the move away from gilt/gloss dials to matte/white writing in the later 1960s, but also extremely subtle shifts in the basic fonts and printing of otherwise very similar dials that are much harder to keep track of and difficult for the unitiated to see. In the end, a lot of the main factors of a Vintage Rolex Sports watch’s appeal and value come down to hard-to-spot minutiae.

And that’s where a new site like 5513mattedial.com becomes so valuable. Taking a magnifier to the Matte dial non-date Submariners that were produced from the late 1960s until the early 80s, the site’s author, longtime collector Beaumont Miller II, has catalogued the key evolutionary differences in that ultimate Rolex tool watch, the reference 5513 Submariner, during its long years of matte dial production. Now in one place we have a handy collector’s resource that makes clear the key characteristics of Maxi dials, Pre-Comex, and the early Meters-First variations, among others. And as a result of these comprehensive efforts you will see more variety in this “common” model than you previously thought possible.

If collecting Vintage Rolex is all about the details (and it is!), then 5513mattedial.com is an exceptionally handy resource to consult when hunting a white-writing 5513 and determining where its dial falls in the production sequence and if in fact the printing is actually legitimate. Written in an entertaining and self-depricating style, the site is as thorough and specific as they come and shows that by looking closely and analyzing seemingly random minutiae at length, a much greater mosaic comes into view when all the puzzle pieces are finally laid into place. It’s a job well done all around and I strongly recommend it to anyone interesting in collecting these iconic Submariners.

The Original Explorer II — Rolex’s Funky Disco-era Classic

Early 1972 1655 Explorer II (non-luminous "baton" sweep seconds)

Early-version 1972 1655 Explorer II with characteristic dial, non-luminous “baton” sweep seconds and Mk II bezel

One of the most iconic vintage Rolexes out there doesn’t even look like a conventional Rolex. Sure, it’s got the classic 3-piece Oyster case — screw-down crown and back, pressure fit bezel — but the 1970s reference 1655 Explorer II shares very little else with its forebears. Most distinctly, the dial and hands are completely atypical for Rolex designs of that or any other era. Often fondly referred to as the “Disco Ball” by certain wags in England, the dial has an abundance of luminous “check” markers as opposed to the standard dots and bars on most Rolex Sports models such as Submariner and GMT, or the classic semi-Arabics layout of its predecessor, the Explorer.

Classic Explorer ref. 1016 — a distant family resemblance at best

So aside from the somewhat standard if oversize triangle at “12” the dial is an absolutely unique departure for Rolex. Upon closer inspection it is clear that the inner sequence of luminous checks corresponds to 12-hour time while the outer sequence is calibrated to the non-numbered odd-hour hashes of the fixed engraved 24-hour bezel.

Original Explorer II caving ad in French from Jake’s Rolex World Blog

It turns out that the original conception for the Explorer II was as a watch for spelunkers (!), with the highly luminous Big Orange 24-hour hand alerting the intrepid cavers as to whether it was day or night outside. Continue reading →

And it’s baaaack: Return of the “Pat Tillman” Submariner

Newly relisted on eBay: Return of the “Pat Tillman” Submariner. And this time with a promise to donate 15% of the proceeds to the Pat Tillman Foundation. Of course, there’s still no eBay donation link or other official endorsement that would guarantee that, so I guess we’ll just have to take his word for it. Would be nice to think so but with the vile and vituperative emails I’ve received from this asshole, I wouldn’t bet on it. Those with nothing to hide do not react to simple queries in that manner. So IMO, don’t believe the hype on any of this seller’s claims. Ever.

The Case of the Questionable “Pat Tillman” Rolex Submariner

Unfortunately, like any hobby that attracts big money, vintage watch collecting has its share of scams and scumbags. For example, and it would be hard to think of a more odious seller angle, this so-called “Pat Tillman Rolex 5513 Submariner” showed its face on eBay the other day. Along with a lot of claims about how this was the heroic Pat Tillman‘s personal watch that he wore in Iraq and Afghanistan before he was tragically killed by friendly fire, there was a song and dance about Mr. Tillman’s Social Security number being engraved on the inside, with his rank and Ranger motto on the outside. And of course the obligatory “Support the Pat Tillman Foundation”… without any link, official endorsement or percentage contribution of the proceeds to said foundation or other veterans’ groups via eBay, which is extremely easy to arrange when you list an item for sale.

Probably Not Really Pat Tillman’s Submariner

So I had questions, as any properly skeptical observer would of a big money watch with specially claimed provenance, and they were: Why would Pat Tillman take a 1966 Rolex Submariner into action in Afghanistan when a G-Shock is the preferred equipment these days? Where was the actual provenance that this was the Pat Tillman’s watch, such as a letter from the family and/or an official family representative? Why would Mr. Tillman have engraved his Social inside the caseback — that is a very old fashioned concept that might have been done in 1966 but in 2003? And most importantly, where was a commitment to donating some of the proceeds from this sale to the Pat Tillman Foundation, the absence of which made this an extremely mercenary and unsavory endeavor even if the watch was genuine?

Probably Not Really Pat Tillman’s Submariner, back

When I raised these questions publicly on a very well known forum, and mind you I didn’t say the watch was phony just that these things seemed incongruous, I received the following blasts of opprobrium from a “Jack Dorsey” in reply:

Let me get this straight, after their loved one was killed in Afghanistan, you would narcissist [sic] enough to ask a grieving family to write a letter about their dead family member in order to satisfy your thirst, and you find nothing wrong with that? … Have you ever served in the military? Your comments suggest that you haven’t, Because in our world Name, Rank and Serial Number is enough. If Spc Tillman’s social security number is inside that case back, than in all likelihood that is his watch.

And it goes on like that. Not only that but I got wonderfully colorful personal emails from Mr. “Dorsey” and a compatriot (probably the same dude really) named “Jose Corrone” who also commented on the original post, so obviously they were not disinterested parties but in fact the seller(s) of the watch over there in Mullica Hill, New Jersey (an IP search of “Jose” confirmed that proximate location, i.e. close to Philly). I guess I touched a nerve and the only thing these bozos had to come back with was ad hominem, circular logic (If that’s Pat Tillman’s SS# then it’s probably his watch! — agreed, now prove it) and machismo posturing. And shortly thereafter the “Tillman Sub” auction was ended early before it could go to the hammer.

Yes, Pat Tillman was but this watch probably wasn't his

Yes, Pat Tillman was a hero but this watch probably wasn’t his

Now, I like to think that their little scam was made stillborn after a light was shone on these cockroaches who feed on the fame of a dead war hero to sell their questionable goods. But maybe someone less cautious or particular made an outside deal with them thinking he was getting the real thing. Hard to know for sure. But I do know that “Jack Dorsey”, “Jose Carrone” and their loathsome ilk have no place in this hobby. If you can’t defend your watches that you are seeking to profit from (and the spectacular claims you make for them) by any means other than threats, name calling and unsubstantiated bullshit then go back to your day jobs nickel-and-diming widows and mopping out the local porno and leave the watch sales to decent human beings.

As the old saying goes, and just as in all aspects of commerce but especially in collecting vintage watches: be careful — it’s a jungle out there. But in honor of these assholes, let’s all really make a donation to the Pat Tillman Foundation and that way something good will come out of their venality after all.

tomvox1’s watches for sale — December Selection

MFL is proud to present links to tomvox1’s ads for vintage watches. These are sales posts you might otherwise have to search the web for or miss entirely before they are sold. These watches are eclectic, cover a wide range of price points and offer the discerning gentleman the opportunity to acquire quality vintage timepieces that are guaranteed to be authentic and add penache & elan to a man’s wrist & wardrobe. Most of all, they are backed by one of the world’s foremost collectors and always certain to be accurately and lovingly described down to the last detail. Simply put, you can buy a watch from some other random seller on the Internet with a lot of vague claims and small pictures or you can buy a tomvox1 watch and know exactly what you’re getting before you make the leap.

~~Vintage Rolex ref. 1655 Explorer II Straight Hand Freccione — Click here for complete Vintage Rolex Market ad~~: SOLD

Vintage Rolex ref. 3696 Pink Gold/SS Tropical Bubbleback w/BLACK Dial — Click here for complete Vintage Rolex Market ad: SOLD

~~Vintage 1950s Omega cal. 355 Bumper Automatic Calendar w/ TÜRLER Dial — Click here for complete Timezone Sales Corner ad~~: SOLD

Watch Collector’s Notebook: Tudor by Rolex

In any discussion, Tudor by Rolex must be mentioned as one of the highest quality, most diverse and most appealing brands in the vintage watch world, and one that often offers terrific bang for the buck. Tudor was officially created as Rolex’s junior brand in the post-WWII era as a way to fulfill founder Hans Wilsdorf’s desire to offer Rolex quality at a slightly lower price. They achieved this by outsourcing the movement production.

Ca. late 1940s/early 50s Ref. 951 “Bumper” Automatic

Ref. 951 “Bumper” Auto Movement (A. Schild 1250)

The first “official” Tudors were actually bumper automatics with A. Schild movements. But these did not really fit Wilsdorf’s dictum that the new subsidiary brand should share the full-rotor automatic “Perpetual” movement that Rolex pioneered and, I believe, still had many proprietary rights to even as late as the 1950s. Therefore, Rolex commissioned outside movement manufacturer Fleurier (FEF) to build a bespoke version of their manual caliber 350 with an auto-rotor module added, thus creating the first exclusive Tudor calibers: 390 (non-date) and 395 (date). You will not find a 390 or 395 in any watch other than a Tudor, as FEF only sold this ebauche to Rolex under exclusive agreement. The debut of these movements marks the real launch of the Tudor “Rotor Self-Winding” Oyster-Princes. Initially patterned after pre-Explorer Oysters, they were also sent on expeditions as their progenitors had been so successfully, to build up their reputation as tough and durable watches for the man of action.

Early cal. 390 ref. 7909

Continue reading →

Thoughts on the astounding results from Christie’s Rolex Daytona “Lesson One” Auction

Like many vintage Rolex enthusiasts, it’s taken me some time to fully digest the incredibly high results from Christie’s November 10th auction, “Rolex Daytona ‘Lesson One’: 50 exceptional examples of the world’s most celebrated chronograph wristwatch”, held in Geneva. When I say incredible, I mean it literally: the prices achieved by the majority of these Cosmographs really did defy belief. Some examples…

Right out of the chute, Lot 1’s lovely pump pusher 6239 with Underline and double-SWISS markings and slightly “Tropical” brown sub registers hammered for $296,250.

Lot 1, ref. 6239

Previously, I would have said that the estimate of $44-$88k was spot on with $88k being very ambitious.