Category Archives: Guy Style

Men’s Cologne – Givenchy Gentleman by Givenchy (Original)

First of all please note that this review is for the original formula of Givenchy Gentleman, which debuted way back in 1974, and not the recent reformulated 2017 release where the label actually reads “Gentleman Givenchy.” I haven’t tried that new, fruitier version so I can’t comment. What I can say is that original Givenchy Gentleman has become one of my favorites and a go-to in my rotation despite the fact that it’s approaching the 45th anniversary of its creation by Paul Leger. So much so that when I saw they were reshuffling it to the Les Parfums Mythiques category where old Givenchy frags are put out to pasture I bought several back-up bottles in case they decided to water it down.

While there is the usual waxing rhapsodic on fragrance forums about the vintage formulation, the modern iteration of Gentleman up until the shift over to Les Parfums Mythiques is still pure class (haven’t tried the LPM version but being so recently in production unlike, say, Xeyrus, I’m hopeful that they haven’t messed it up). From it’s distinctively simple “pharmacist”-style flaçon and spare modernist silver label with black Garamond lettering to the yellow-hued juice inside one immediately gets that “old school” vibe. But the fragrance itself, while certainly created a long time ago, remains timeless. Yes, it’s from the 1970s and yes its dominant note by far is patchouli. However, this is a cologne for people who only think they hate patchouli but have never smelled a well rendered, highly natural version of it. Along with Giorgio of Beverly Hills and the sadly discontinued Moods Uomo by Krizia, Gentleman has the best front and center patchouli note in the mass marketed fragrance business. But unlike Giorgio’s very forward honey-lime notes or the pervasive rose of Moods sweetening the deal, Gentleman’s patch is really both the soloist and the orchestra. Yes, there are the usual “woody aromatic” embellishments listed in the notes pyramid such as cedar and oakmoss but those seem faint to non-existent to my nose, as does the civet, which may have been phased out due to IFRA prohibitions. There is still a nice vetiver playing its part, a creamy orris root binding things together and some semi sweet-ish green spice notes likely from the listed tarragon, as well as a subtle rose note in the background. And the base definitely has a wonderfully long lasting leather note.

But again, this fragrance is all about the patchouli, which is both dirty and clean and goes on forever. When you first spray it on you may be alarmed — this Eau de Toilette is very concentrated — but hang in there for a minute and the fragrance instantly develops into an embracingly warm, inexpressibly elegant concoction cocooning you in pure masculine vibes. Continue reading →

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — August selection

The phrase hotter than July has rarely been more apt because I’m offering up another stone cold classic to start this red hot August — a scarce French Air Force-issued Dodane Type 21 pilot’s chrono from the Cold War era.

Featuring an absoultely stunning dial that has aged to a deep chocolate brown, this Type 21 has all the sexy patina and wabi-sabi you could want in a military watch with loads of wrist appeal, not to mention terrific functionality.

Underneath the beautifully proportioned 38mm stainless steel screwed case is the fantastically engineered Valjoux caliber 235 hi-beat Flyback chronograph movement, still performing like a champ after all these years.

With its French Armée de l’Air Fin de Garantie service mark dating from 1979 this beautiful chocolate Dodane Type 21 has all the provenance any MilWatch enthusiast could need. And it’s offered at a fraction of the price of its Breguet Type 21 vintage brother. There’s no substitute for a genuine issued vintage military watch and, as the saying goes, they aren’t making any more of them. So get this amazing Dodane while you can!

Check out the full ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Watch Sales section.  SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — July selection, Pt. II

July must be the month for beautiful black dialed watches because here comes another one. This time it’s an even more uncommon mid-1960s reference 666-AD Ingeniuer with incredible glossy black dial. Part of the Big 3 of antimagnetic “scientist” watches from the toolwatch Golden Age along with the Rolex Milgauss and Omega Railmaster, the IWC Ingenieur is a legend in its own right and probably the most versatile of the that illustrious a-mag lot. Putting this rare original black dial over the top is the added signature of the legendary Zurich jewelry retailer, Türler. That’s really a rare touch on an already rare model!

With its well proportioned 36.5mm all-steel 3-piece screwed case and beefy safe-like design to accommodate the anti-magnetic Farraday cage, the classic 666 Ingy is both rugged and elegant, a real mid-century masterpiece. Originally water resistant to 10 ATM and resistant to up to 1000 Gauss of magnetic fields, the enemy of a watch’s balance spring, this version of Ingeniuer features the excellent 21-jewel caliber 8531 with date complication under the hood. With its unique Pellaton winding system it’s part of one of the best mass-produced automatic families in horological history.

To put the ice cream on the pie this classic Ingenieur comes on its original Gay Freres beads-of-rice bracelet with IWC-signed “globe” logo clasp, a serious find in its own right. If you’ve ever searched for one of these you know they just don’t come around very often, especially not with a black dial double-signed by Türler and on an original GF bracelet, so this is a great opportunity for the serious collector to own this iconic timepiece from IWC Schaffhausen. Don’t miss it!

Check out the complete ad for this killer Ingenieur now over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Private Sales section for many more pictures and complete condition report. The chance to own an example as special as this one may not come again!  SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — July selection

We may be well and truly deep into the heat of July but here’s something ineffably cool — a late 1960s Seamster “Special” with stunning original gloss black dial. Black dials are quite uncommon on Omega dress models of this era and are highly sought after. With its silver print and outstanding original condition this one’s a pip.

Dating from circa 1967-68 and powered by the redoubtable Omega in-house caliber 565 with quickest date via repeatedly pulling out the crown, this Seamaster is a well balanced and classic gent’s 35mm in diameter. It also comes on its period correct beads-of-rice bracelet, a nice bonus, as well as a hand made black leather strap for added versatility..

For some obscure reason — perhaps the enhanced luminous dial? — this model is referred to as a “Special” in Omega’s vintage database. It is also believed that this case and dial combo is likely one of Gerald Genta’s designs for the company. Looking at the beautiful proportions and ergonomics of this watch on the wrist one can easily see why. No doubt about it — Special is a term that truly fits this handsome devil.

Although Omega made a lot of dress Seamasters during this era, a solid steel model rather than gold plated version represents great value for money in my opinion. When you throw in its eye-catching good looks and that magical deep black dial, this Seamster “Special” is one of the true bargains of the vintage watch world. Grab it while that’s still the case!

Check out the complete ad now over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Private Sales section for many more pictures and complete condition report. Better step on it — I don’t see this black beauty lasting too long.  ON HOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — June selection, Pt. II

Well, we’re Just about midway through a somewhat up and down June weather-wise but look what just flew in to brighten our day? Wait for it — another fantastic vintage chronograph! Yup, this newly available beauty is a very uncommon vintage Breitling reference 2115 GMT Chrono-Matic in Jumbo 47mm case (don’t faint –it wears great). This example dates from 1970, early on in the great Heuer-Breitling Chronomatic adventure that resulted in some of the most iconic and funky chronographs of the late 1960s and ’70s.

This 2115 features not only an automatic chrono with date with the characteristic crown-on-the-left but also a classic 24-hour hand complication with calibrated “plus/minus” rotating bezel for the calculation of a second timezone. I love a good GMT watch and design-wise this Breitling is one of the cooler and more ambitious ones ever made.

Not for the faint of wrist, this Breitling GMT is nonetheless well proportioned and is a fairly rare beast with a uniquely cool and funky layout — along with the 1809 Cosmonaute one of the nicest on a Chrono-Matic, in my opinion. Check out those great hands not to mention the extra long period original signed bracelet, which is rare as hen’s teeth!

Personally I feel that vintage Breitling could well be the “next big thing” in a year or two. In my opinion the brand’s heritage is undervalued and some real collector appreciation is overdue. Plus, so many other vintage brands are overhyped and — to be honest — underwhelming and overvalued. So if you’ve got the panache to pull off this bad boy you could do a lot worse than adding this beautiful, orange-accented two-timezone beast to your stable. It’s about as fun and funky as a vintage watch gets!

Check out the full ad now over at Watchuseek with many more pictures and complete conditon report. If you like ’em big and complicated you’ll be glad you did!  SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — June selection

Sure we’ve turned the page to June but the hits just keep on coming. So I’m proud to offer yet another killer chrono, this time one of the all-time classic pilot watches, an Omega Speedmaster Professional. This example is a reference 145.022 from 1971 and features the last of the handsome and iconic stepped dials.

While not a museum piece, this classic Omega Speedmaster Professional is a solid and honest example perfect for everyday wear and its gorgeous original Tritium stepped dial has developed a pleasing creamy patina, as has the matching handset.

This great Omega is powered by the stalwart Lemania derived caliber 861, re-qualified for space flight by NASA upon its introduction as the successor to the legendary cal. 321 in the late 1960s and therefore certainly up to any and all of your terrestrial timing needs here on Earth.

This 145.022-71 also features the introduction of the modern Speedy pro back with its characteristic Speedmaster Hippocampus medallion and circular NASA print. All in all, it has lot of special little collector qualities that add up to a very appealing acquisition, not the least of which is its reasonable price in this rather overheated market. Pounce today to put this classic early 1970s Moonwatch on your wrist before prices jump yet again!

Check out the full ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the bustling Watchuseek Dealers & Manufacturers section. You’ll be glad you did!  SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — May selection, Pt. III

May is winding down but there’s still time to offer up another great watch before we flip the calendar. And this one’s a pip — a double name Bell & Ross by Sinn military chronograph powered by the redoubtable and complicated Lemania 5100 movement.

This awesome 1990s watch has so many functions that I like to call it the Swiss Army Knife of chronos: engine turned sub dials for constant seconds, elapsed hours & 24-hour indicator; original Tritium luminous Arabic numerals with wonderful patina; apertures for the date and day; black anodized aluminum elapsed time bezel with a pleasing mint of WABI; and of course the iconic Lemania 5100 chronograph layout with neon orange-tipped chrono sweep seconds and “jet” minute counter.

This big fella measure in at a brawny 43mm in diameter and has a classic military pilot’s look. In fact, the Sinn M1 represents the ultimate evolution of the Bund-style aviator’s watch that Heuer-Leonides originally pioneered in the 1960s and there’s little doubt the late Helmut Sinn’s intention was to offer this model for military supply.

This excellent example features an unpolished bead blasted case and uncommon matching B&R-signed blasted bracelet. I’m even throwing in a Sinn aviator’s strap for good measure and maximum versatility. What more could you want if you’re looking for an uncommon double-signed example of a true late 20th century chrono classic?

This handsome and rugged Sinn/B&R is sure to make a great summer addition for some lucky guy. But at its maximum bang for the buck price point I can’t see it sticking around for long.

So check out the full ad now over at the always hopping Omega Forums private sales section for many more pictires and complete condition report — Sinning never looked so good.  ON HOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — May selection, Pt. II

The hits keep on coming as we merrily roll along in May. Newly on offer is this ultra-cool late 1960s Movado Datron HS360 Super Sub Sea diver’s chronograph with beautiful black and white inverse Panda dial featuring the more uncommon rotating Tachymeter bezel. It also comes on its original Gay Freres “Ladder”-style bracelet with Rolex-esque fliplock clasp & divers’ extension, a nice added bonus.

Under the hood of this big steel beauty is the legendary Zenith/Movado “El Primero” 3019 PHC automatic movement, the pioneering high-beat automatic chrono caliber that set the watch world on fire in 1969 and continues to be a technological pacesetter to this very day.

With its handsomely brawny all-steel case and uncommon rotating Tachymeter bezel giving it a racier look than standard diver-bezel counterparts this Datron just oozes “man of action,” ready for the track or beach. And with vintage Movado chronographs finally getting their due in long-overdue esteem it also represents great value for money now with good upside potential in future. And hey, who doesn’t like a classic Panda dial layout on their wrist?  This beautiful Movado Super Sub Sea El Primero is definitely ready for its close-up on yours.

Come check it out today on Watchuseek’s Dealers sales corner to see the full ad with many more pictures and complete condition report.  SOLD

 

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — May selection

It may be the first day of May but our late April style trend continues as we finally celebrate real spring weather with another suitably stunning vintage watch. This time it’s an uncommon early 1960s Longines Conquest in beautiful 18k Pink Gold.

This reference 9025 Conquest features a beautiful matching rose gold dial with very cool, highly stylized markers and raised geometrically faceted track for eye-catching elegance on the wrist, as well as the idiosyncratic framed date at “12.”  Absolutely one of the coolest and most unusual dial layouts out there and an innovative design classic by Longines.

Under the hood is a Longines in-house mini-masterpiece, the stalwart caliber 291 with 24-jewels and semi-quickset date. It’s a beautifully utilitarian sight to behold, as any watchmaker will tell you, and still delightfully accurate after all these years.

These handsome solid gold dress models from Longines’ mid-century heyday are really coming into their own as watches well worth collecting. Better yet with its elegant yet robust water resistant case design this is a vintage dress watch you can still wear and enjoy. And oh, man — the look of vintage rose gold in the sun!

Check out the full ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at Watchuseek. You’ll be glad you did!  ON SALE

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — April selection, Pt. II

Making good on my promise that there will be a passel of special watches appearing in the coming  weeks here is another vintage beauty as we get ready to exit April — a stunning Jumbo Tudor Prince Oysterdate from the early 1970s.

With the same 38mm case as Rolex’s iconic 1019 Milgauss this model 9018/4 Oysterdate wears like a delightfully beefed up Datejust. Its silver dial is just as classic and the oversized white gold bezel gives it the same sort of elegant punch, albeit with a bit of a sportier feel due to the overall increased size of the watch

Powered by a robust ETA 2784 movement with quickest date this classic Tudor deserves props in its own right and not just as a junior member of Team Rolex. With the same build quality and design aesthetics — only supersized! — this is definitely another instance where the Shield gives the Coronet a run for its money. Strap it on for yourself and you’ll see just what I mean.

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the newly revamped but still awesome Vintage Rolex Forum’s Market section.  SOLD