May is winding down but there’s still time to offer up another great watch before we flip the calendar. And this one’s a pip — a double name Bell & Ross by Sinn military chronograph powered by the redoubtable and complicated Lemania 5100 movement.
This awesome 1990s watch has so many functions that I like to call it the Swiss Army Knife of chronos: engine turned sub dials for constant seconds, elapsed hours & 24-hour indicator; original Tritium luminous Arabic numerals with wonderful patina; apertures for the date and day; black anodized aluminum elapsed time bezel with a pleasing mint of WABI; and of course the iconic Lemania 5100 chronograph layout with neon orange-tipped chrono sweep seconds and “jet” minute counter.
This big fella measure in at a brawny 43mm in diameter and has a classic military pilot’s look. In fact, the Sinn M1 represents the ultimate evolution of the Bund-style aviator’s watch that Heuer-Leonides originally pioneered in the 1960s and there’s little doubt the late Helmut Sinn’s intention was to offer this model for military supply.
This excellent example features an unpolished bead blasted case and uncommon matching B&R-signed blasted bracelet. I’m even throwing in a Sinn aviator’s strap for good measure and maximum versatility. What more could you want if you’re looking for an uncommon double-signed example of a true late 20th century chrono classic?
This handsome and rugged Sinn/B&R is sure to make a great summer addition for some lucky guy. But at its maximum bang for the buck price point I can’t see it sticking around for long.
The hits keep on coming as we merrily roll along in May. Newly on offer is this ultra-cool late 1960s Movado Datron HS360 Super Sub Sea diver’s chronograph with beautiful black and white inverse Panda dial featuring the more uncommon rotating Tachymeter bezel. It also comes on its original Gay Freres “Ladder”-style bracelet with Rolex-esque fliplock clasp & divers’ extension, a nice added bonus.
Under the hood of this big steel beauty is the legendary Zenith/Movado “El Primero” 3019 PHC automatic movement, the pioneering high-beat automatic chrono caliber that set the watch world on fire in 1969 and continues to be a technological pacesetter to this very day.
With its handsomely brawny all-steel case and uncommon rotating Tachymeter bezel giving it a racier look than standard diver-bezel counterparts this Datron just oozes “man of action,” ready for the track or beach. And with vintage Movado chronographs finally getting their due in long-overdue esteem it also represents great value for money now with good upside potential in future. And hey, who doesn’t like a classic Panda dial layout on their wrist? This beautiful Movado Super Sub Sea El Primero is definitely ready for its close-up on yours.
It may be the first day of May but our late April style trend continues as we finally celebrate real spring weather with another suitably stunning vintage watch. This time it’s an uncommon early 1960s Longines Conquest in beautiful 18k Pink Gold.
This reference 9025 Conquest features a beautiful matching rose gold dial with very cool, highly stylized markers and raised geometrically faceted track for eye-catching elegance on the wrist, as well as the idiosyncratic framed date at “12.” Absolutely one of the coolest and most unusual dial layouts out there and an innovative design classic by Longines.
Under the hood is a Longines in-house mini-masterpiece, the stalwart caliber 291 with 24-jewels and semi-quickset date. It’s a beautifully utilitarian sight to behold, as any watchmaker will tell you, and still delightfully accurate after all these years.
These handsome solid gold dress models from Longines’ mid-century heyday are really coming into their own as watches well worth collecting. Better yet with its elegant yet robust water resistant case design this is a vintage dress watch you can still wear and enjoy. And oh, man — the look of vintage rose gold in the sun!
With the same 38mm case as Rolex’s iconic 1019 Milgauss this model 9018/4 Oysterdate wears like a delightfully beefed up Datejust. Its silver dial is just as classic and the oversized white gold bezel gives it the same sort of elegant punch, albeit with a bit of a sportier feel due to the overall increased size of the watch
Powered by a robust ETA 2784 movement with quickest date this classic Tudor deserves props in its own right and not just as a junior member of Team Rolex. With the same build quality and design aesthetics — only supersized! — this is definitely another instance where the Shield gives the Coronet a run for its money. Strap it on for yourself and you’ll see just what I mean.
Keep your eyes on this space in the coming weeks because I’ll be offering a fantastic selection of great watches. And perhaps first among equals is this stunning 1968 GMT-Master. Featuring an absolutely Mint first generation “Long E” matte dial and gorgeously aged magenta/faded denim bezel insert this is the kind of vintage Rolex GMT that serious collectors dream about.
The late ‘60s GMT-Master with Mark I matte dial is one of the hottest vintage watches out there right now, finally getting its due after many years of being overshadowed by Submariners, and this beautiful example is in wonderfully well preserved vintage condition for a 50-year old watch with just the right touch of lived in charm and hard earned character.
The killer Tritium dial and gorgeously aged insert make it a very special Rolex for the discerning collector. It comes on a period correct folded Oyster bracelet and was last serviced late in 2015 and so is running like a top and ready for action on the wrist of its new owner.
March Madness for great collectible watches continues with this awesome IWC Flieger UTC dual timezone beauty. UTC stands for Universal Time Coordiated (why, its right there in the dial!), the successor to GMT time as the standard for pilots. So it only makes sense that this late 1990s addition to IWCs fabled Flieger line features a mega cool UTC 24-hour readout right there on the dial.
See, you set up the watch so that both the 12-hour hands and 24-hour disc are in sync. Then when you travel this cool timepiece lets you set the hour hand independently either forwards or backwards via the screw down crown. But your hometime stays constant. A pretty darn cool way to design a GMT watch!
Not only that but the beautiful stainless steel case is built like a tank. It’s also sized like a jumbo Mark XI at an ultra-wearable 39mm, perfectly proportioned in my opinion. Plus this early reference 3251 still features its classic black and white “Mark”-style dial with mixed Tritium along with Luminova luminous for that classic aviator toolwatch look. Better yet all this wristwatch engineering and functionality represents terrific value for money in today’s bananas watch world. So strap it on and set course for distant lands. Day or night, this Flieger UTC could be the only travel watch you need in any hemisphere!
The recent run of remarkable vintage Omegas continues into March with this stunning and ultra-funky 1969 Jumbo Constellation Day-Date. Featuring a large rectangular cushion style case and integrated bracelet that meets the case precisely at its widest point, this Connie is something of a precursor to other famous avant-garde integrated bracelet watches like the Gerald Genta-designed AP Royal Oak and Patek Nautilus. As a major design contributor for many Omega Constellations during the late 1950s and throughout 1960s who knows if there isn’t some Genta DNA in this model, as well?
Under that neo-futurist body beats the excellent caliber 751, arguably the last of Omega’s great in-house movements until the modern era. It was fully serviced in 2015 and features not only day and date complications but also a very cool quickest date function by repeatedly pulling the crown out to its second position. So once you set the day by full 24-hour revolutions of the hands it’s a piece of cake to match up the date, presto chango.
Its beautiful horizontally brushed Near Mint original dial changes tone in different light from pewter to bright silver and the watch as a whole is in Excellent vintage condition, showing little if any polish and displaying sharp chamfers. If you want to talk cheap thrills in the overheated vintage watch world this model of Connie has got be high up on the list. Space age cool combines with a fantastic analog heart to make for a premium piece that you’re not likely to see on anyone else’s wrist. Dig that!
It’s hard to believe there hasn’t been a comprehensive Eric Clapton biographical documentary until now. The legendary British guitarist has been a major part of the Rock firmament for well over 50 years yet we had to wait until 2017 before we got a full cinematic retrospective of Clapton’s rather amazing life and career. Thankfully, Lili Fini Zanuck’s Eric Clapton: Life in 12 Bars does its mythical subject justice, all the more so by humanizing the diffident guitar genius by delving into his troubled childhood and deep emotional troughs along with chronicling Slowhand’s blazing musical achievements.
Clocking in at a fairly long 2 hours, 13 minutes, Eric Clapton: Life in 12 Bars is definitely a conventional documentary and nothing groundbreaking in and of itself, tracing Clapton’s life in chronological fashion from his middle class upbringing in postwar Ripley, England, through his rise to superstardom and to the modern day. Thankfully, its exhaustive nature is much more illuminating than tedious, at least to a lifelong fan like myself. Clapton has always been a somewhat elusive character, both omnipresent in Rock culture and yet a bit opaque with a tendency to recede for long periods of time. Life in 12 Bars does an excellent job of filling in the major mysteries of his rather dramatic life.
Chief among them is the fact that Clapton found out at around age 9 that the woman he thought was his mother was actually his grandmother and that his real mother had abandoned him and fled to Canada after a brief war time fling led to his conception. This primal abandonment and subsequent rejection by his biological mother during his youth and adolescence — she had started an entirely new family in the following years — led to profound psychological scars, as well as intimacy issues. As so often is the case with a genius, though, this trauma also led to amazing artistic breakthroughs. After becoming obsessed with American Blues and R&B as a teenager, young Eric took to the guitar like a fish to water.
After flirting with graphic art at college, Clapton joined his first real band in 1962 at the age of 17. By 1963 he was in the Yardbirds as they starting their amazing run of Blues-inflected British pop, becoming one of the stalwarts of the British Invasion and one of its key innovators. Clapton left the Yardbirds in ’65 when he felt they were straying too far from their Blues roots for his liking, joining the more traditionalist John Mayall and the Bluesbreakers. While fruitful for Clapton’s evolution as a modern Blues guitar master, the relationship was short-lived and by late 1966 Clapton had teamed up with drummer Ginger Baker and bassist/voclaist Jack Bruce to form the ultimate power trio, Cream.
Cream, one of the earliest so-called “supergroups,” slowly built into a monstrously successful act, particularly once they crossed the Atlantic and began a string of mythical live shows in New York, San Francisco and across the United States. Clapton was also inspired by the emergence of another guitar legend upon the scene, Jimi Hendrix, perhaps the only true rival to Clapton in terms of pure technique (with apologies to Jimmy Page). This period was undoubtedly the high point of Clapton’s 1960s career, with both critical accolades and commercial success through his highly influential work as part of Cream, which for good or ill laid the groundwork for both Heavy Metal and the hard-edged Blooze music to come in the early 70s by bands like Deep Purple, Blue Cheer, Black Sabbath, et al.
However, all was not well in the band despite their massive success. Relentless touring and the deteriorating toxic relationship between Bruce and Baker led to a permanent rupture, with the band releasing their final album, the aptly named Goodbye, in 1970. After that, Clapton was off to the short-lived Blind Faith (“Cant Find My Way Home”), Delaney and Bonnie and Friends (“Let It Rain,” “After Midnight”) and as a super session man on all-time classics like George Harrison’s “While My Guitar Gently Weeps,” John Lennon’s “Cold Turkey” and “Go Back Home” by Stephen Stills, among many others.
The next key development for Clapton was the formation of Derek and the Dominos. The material for for their first album came largely from Clapton’s obsessive infatuation with George Harrison’s wife, Pattie Boyd. Despite the fact that Harrison was probably Clapton’s closest friend he pursued Boyd and essentially recorded Layla and Other Love Songs in an attempt to woo her away from the quiet Beatle. The title track and “Bellbottom Blues” were particularly raw expressions of unrequited love, as well as stone classics, and the whole double album is a remarkable artistic achievement that also featured key contributions from Duane Allman, a vital catalyst after Clapton and the Dominos suffered major creative blocks.
Bizarrely, despite its undeniable greatness the album failed in America due to the confusing pseudonym chosen for the band. Even more ominously, Derek and the Dominos proved to be a final zenith for the seemingly unstoppable Clapton for some time, as tragic events conspired to send him into a drug-fueled tailspin. First came the death of his guitar rival/soulmate Hendrix in September, 1970, shortly after the band had recorded a version of “Little Wing” as a tribute. By October, 1971 Duane Allman was also dead in a motorcycle accident (this fact is inexcplicably left out of 12 Bars). Perhaps worst of all, despite the passion of Layla, Pattie Boyd chose to remain with Harrison for the time being, adding to Clapton’s sense of hopeless desperation. After leading from the ramparts of the 1960s Rock revolution with ever-increasing influence, popularity and creative innovation, Clapton would drop out and spend the first several years of the 1970s as a heroin-addled hermit.
Of course, this is really only the first part of both the documentary and Clapton’s life story, albeit the most important and dynamic section of the film. 12 Bars goes on to recount Clapton’s struggles with both heroin and alcohol, his epically erratic comeback to live performance, his eventual rather hollow winning of Pattie Boyd as his wife (it didn’t last) and the tragic death of his young son Connor to a fall out the window of a New York skyscraper in 1991. I’m probably in the minority but there are a bit too many rather morbid home movies of his son set to “Tears In Heaven” for my taste after the scope of the loss has already been well established — and with the same images already seen immediately prior. No doubt this absolutely horrible loss was a key event in Clapton’s later life and a major turning point in his sobriety — not to mention the resulting song a massive hit for E.C and a ubiquitous Grammy-winning Unplugged performance. But it still seems like this section is padded out and the tragedy exploited in a somewhat unseemly and facile music video fashion.
Nevertheless, while it has its flaws Eric Clapton: Life in 12 Bars is a must-view for any serious Clapton fan and really anyone interested in the history of Rock ‘n Roll in general, particularly the lighting-fast developments of the British music scene in the 1960s. Along with the breadth of sorrows that the film lays bare in the man and his Herculean struggles to overcome them, which were only vaguely known by the general public, the documentary also makes clear by sheer accumulation the true scope of Slowhand’s importance. When dwelling on his solo output it has often been fashionable for Rock critics to render a verdict on Clapton’s work as somewhat disappointing, a bit of a Rock underachiever. But that narrow view fails to take into account the fevered vibrancy of his earlier work and the unsustainability of that pace, not to mention the multitude of his collaborations as a sideman and the undeniable quality of much of his later work in the 1970s, 80s, 90s and until the present day, even if what came after The Yardbirds, Cream and Derek and the Dominos was not quite as revelatory.
I think most of all what comes across is just how young Clapton was when he achieved immortality. By the time Layla was released in 1970 Clapton was all of 25 years old. It’s really no surprise then that he had not yet come to terms with his childhood emotional damage and was still somewhat stunted as a person even if he had already achieved world-conquering global stardom. The fact that he survived the perils of fame and his addictions to keep on recording great music and lived to become one of the grand old men of Rock at the current age of 72 is probably also just as remarkable considering the fate of so many of his contemporaries. In fact, Life in 12 Bars leads to one inescapable conclusion through its excellent exploration of a life literally defined by Rock and the Blues: Eric Clapton may not be God but he is somewhat surprisingly, based on his longevity, his collaborators and the overall quality of his output, the most important guitarist in the history of Rock ‘n Roll.
I don’t throw out Mint very often but this dial is that — beautifully aged Tritium and its high impact gray, orange & burgundy exotic Racing layout still having an intensity to the colors that is seldom seen. Featuring a tonneau case with sweeping lines and a fixed Tachymeter scale integrated into the mineral crystal to prevent the dreaded bezel knock off, the Speedy Mark II was an innovative design that showcased Omega’s modernist commitment to diversify their chronograph line above and beyond the tried and true Moonwatch.
This Speedy Mark II is also powered by the famed Lemania-based manual wind caliber 861, the same robust chrono caliber that is found in the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch from 1969 on. And in fact the movement serial number dates the watch to precisely that year making it one of the earliest Mark IIs around.
Recently serviced and running like a top, with the case exhibiting extremely sharp chamfers and all the original factory finishes, this big chrono makes a pure vintage statement on the wrist while the exceptionally well preserved colors provide uncommon visual punch. Like the Moonwatch, the Speedy Pro Mark II is an iconic chronograph in its own rather daring, avant-garde way. Just strap it on and prepare to fall in love.
And just like that it’s February! Where does the time go? I can’t tell you that but I can tell you how to track it — with this absolutely gorgeous early 1970s Omega Seamaster “TV Case” chronograph featuring the amazing Lemania-derived caliber 1040 and a stunning metallic blue dial.
This fantastic Omega automatic chrono not only tells the time but also has complications for quickest date, constant seconds, 24-hour indicator and full chronograph functions for recording seconds, minutes via the characteristic orange-tipped “jet” center-mounted minute counter and 12-hour totalizer at “6.” This sexy beast also features a sunken dial that has aged to delightful purple-blue surrounded by a fixed Tachymeter scale protected by a mineral crystal, all in a large faceted rectangular case with wonderful sweeping lines that retains its original factory finish.
The TV Case Seamaster chrono is one of the more striking and distinctive designs that Omega came up with in the 1970s following the successes of their tonneau-cased Mark II & Mark III Speedmasters. If you’re looking for retro funk and terrific functionality with a stunning blue dial, you’ve found your watch. And when you look at how the prices of vintage mechanical chronos have skyrocketed in the past few years, the Omega Seamaster TV Case model in steel is a premium piece that still represents excellent value for money. Better pounce before these finally have their day in the sun!