Author Archives: tomvox1

A (very) general hierarchy for vintage watches

Here are some very general guidelines on how to rank and compare vintage watches in a physical sense. Obviously, make and model have the most to do with the overall equation in terms of value but these physical characteristics can still give a collector a basic idea of the overall intrinsic value of a given wristwatch when compared against like examples.

  1. Case Type: A case with screwed back is generally more desirable than one with a snap/pressure fit back due to increased water resistance. Any given multi-piece case is usually preferable to a front loading “monocoque” one-piece case, a style which was popular in the early 1970s but is now out of fashion. A 3-piece case with back, midcase and separate bezel is generally considered superior to a 2-piece case with integrated/formed non-separate bezel. Continue reading

The Rolex Explorer–A watch for all seasons

Rolex Explorer reference 1016--Matte Dial

Rolex Explorer reference 1016–Matte Dial
The most versatile and cleanly designed model in the Rolex Sports/Tool line is the venerable Explorer. Originally christened shortly after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay successfully summited Mt. Everest in 1953 with a great many men on the team wearing Rolex Oysters (there is some mystery as to whether Hillary actually wore a Rolex or a Smiths), the Explorer has been in the Rolex repetoire ever since. And with good reason. Not only does it possess the toughness and water resistance you’d expect from an Oyster Perpetual but it has an elegant simplicity and low profile that make it perfectly suited to any occasion.

1963 1016 with Gilt Dial

With its black face and instantly recognizable military-style luminous “3” “6” “9”, the ultra-legible Explorer goes perfectly with anything you might be thinking of wearing, from hiking attire to formal wear. (Let’s face it: James Bond may be able to pull off a Submariner with a tux but you probably shouldn’t try it.) With no prominent rotating bezel like the Sub or GMT-Master, as well as a thinner case, the Explorer fits under a French cuff as easily as any dress watch in the Oyster line.  But it still looks tough and ready for action.

Modern 36mm ref. 114270

Modern 36mm ref. 114270

Yes, all it does is tell time. But it does that beautifully, accurately and with unmatched versatility. While Rolex has lately upsized the Explorer to a beefier 39mm, I strongly prefer the traditional 36mm diameter. Don’t mess with a classic.

For more great reading on the origins of the Explorer, check out this terrific post over at Vintage Rolex Forum from one of the big Dutch collectors. It’s a truly great read.

Earworm of the Day: Strange Powers by The Magnetic Fields

With a bouncy, chuggy beat accented by continually shaking sleigh bells, a flute somewhere in the background and a disembodied chorus of “ooh-ooh”s, “Strange Powers” manages to be part oompah, part fast buggy ride over the boardwalk and 100% hooky. Frontman, multi-instrumentalist and lead vocal Stephen Merritt’s laconic baritone is swathed in reverb amongst all the musical merriment, as he delivers his declarations of infatuation via deceptively cynical lyrics. It takes at least two listens to figure out quite what’s happening. But at a mere 2:42, it’s such a catchy tune I’m betting you’ll play it more than twice.

Though it still sounds fresh as a daisy, “Strange Powers” was originally released way back in 1994 on Holiday. It is also the title of a 2010 documentary on the band (which is primarily Merritt’s baby) that can be rented on Amazon. I’m going to have to check it out and get back to you all.

Plug the song into your Pandora or download it from iTunes or Amazon.

Accessories we like — John Hardy leather bracelets

Guy jewelry is a tricky thing and some are of the (old) school of thought that it should be watch & wedding ring max. But that seems a bit staid by MFL standards. There’s more than one way at a time to express the complexity of our personalities. Sometimes we want to show our inner tribal warrior off even if we’re wearing a button down Oxford and a tie. Thanks to my better half giving me one for our anniversary (an incredible gift, BTW) I feel that John Hardy leather bracelets can do that job quite nicely.  Not all the designs are winners but a bracelet like the Dayak is nothing but masculine and will complement your tats (or naked hairy wrist) to a T.

John Hardy Dayak

The interplay of leather and sterling silver is based on the traditional warrior designs of the Dayak tribe of Borneo, so you can grab a little of that ethos vicariously when you strap on the Hardy version. (You can read more about the badass Dayaks here but suffice to say you don’t want to start talking smack about their jewelry lest you end up with your head on display in their hut.)

If you want a splash of color, a Station Bracelet in red or green makes a nice statement.

Hardy Station Bracelet

 

These bracelets aren’t cheap by any means at $275-$495 for most of the leather collection. But their solid silver pieces are exponentially more expensive so these are a good way to treat yourself to a bit of tribal toughness that can be worn everyday without breaking the bank. Just don’t wear the ones with magnetic clasps on the same wrist as your watch, as they are quite strong. Unless your watch is an IWC Ingenieur or Rolex Milgauss, that is.

Their official site is here: John Hardy for Men. They also produce a wide range of cufflinks, full metal bracelets, rings and necklaces, as well as stuff for the women & kids.

You can also purchase John Hardy accessories at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.

Relatively cheap vintage watches can make you happy

I just wanted to start a series of posts on relatively inexpensive vintage watches that I think are a good way to begin collecting and provide great bang for the buck. I may go into these makes & models in more detail at a later date but for now here’s a quick example with pix.

Vintage Longines Admiral, circa 1970

Vintage Longines are, for the most part, grossly undervalued in terms of the quality they deliver relative to other “sexier” brands. Take this nice blue dialed Admiral from the early 1970s that I recently sold (with a tinge of regret).

LonginesAdmiral-8_edited-1

Not a big watch at 35mm, it is nevertheless a nice casual dress size and the face looks large due to the narrow bezel. Plus I am a big fan of blue dials and this one is a beauty.

LonginesAdmiral-5_edited-1

It has a water resistant two-piece all-stainless steel case and screwed back, which makes it ideal for daily wear.

LonginesAdmiral-bk_edited-1

But best of all, its “super power” is that it features a rare in house Longines cal. 431 25-jewel chronometer-grade movement adjusted to temperature and 4 positions that beats at 36,000 bph, which gives the second hand a pleasingly smooth sweep.

LonginesAdmiral-move_edited-1

This deluxe version of the 431 was arguably Longines’ most technically advanced movement (the more commonly found version is detuned down to 28,800 bph), an engineering pinnacle of sorts before the quartz revolution nearly destroyed the mechanical watch industry. People like to debate about high beat vs. lower beat movements in terms of accuracy (higher beat) vs. durability (lower beat). That notwithstanding, one has to take their hat off to Longines’ commitment to pushing forward with then-cutting edge mechanical watch technology in the face of the rapidly changing world of tuning fork and quartz module competition.

LonginesAdmiral-wrst_edited-1 IMO, this watch is a stylish steal at around $600-$750.

What we’re listening to today–Down the Line by The Gutter Twins

Here’s something a little grungy to kick off your Monday by the collaboration of 90s hard-alternative vets Mark Lanegan (Screaming Trees) and Gregg Dulli (Afghan Wigs) known as The Gutter Twins.

A much more souped up version of this tune than that of the songwriter, José González (his is also very good just mellow/acoustic–you can compare it here), it appears on the Twins’ 2008 Adorata. Along with a strong cup of java, it should help get you going.

Plug it into your Pandora station or download from iTunes (Adorata is not currently available on Amazon).

What we’re wearing this Summer– SeaVees Baja Slip On

A go anywhere beach sneak, the SeaVees Baja Slip On is the perfect casual summer shoe in our opinion.

In addition to its classic Cali surfer good looks, the Baja’s light and comfortable, breathes well and offers good support and width, even if you’re out pounding the pavement all day. It comes in a variety of cool colors and, best of all, you can just toss them in the wash after you’ve abused them and they’ll come back looking nearly new.

A bit pricey for a sneaker at around $80, we think the amount of use you’ll get out of them in all sorts of summertime situations is still worth it.

It can also be found (sometimes on sale) at Zappos.com.

What we’re listening to now: The Rifle’s Spiral by The Shins

The lead off track from The Shins oddly unloved 2012 album, Port of Morrow (we really like the 80s vibe), “The Rifle’s Spiral” gallops out of the gate with irresistible pace and a calliope of retro-space age sounds.

Somewhat impenetrable, impressionistic lyrics (not a new characteristic for Shins’ frontman James Mercer) contribute both emotional punch and disorientation, as the song rushes by at a fleeting yet expansive 3:30. A great way to start an album. And the day.

Plug it into your Pandora or download it from iTunes or Amazon.

Sad news from Bklyn: RIP Colin Devlin, Owner of DuMont & Dressler

Woke up to this awful news this morning:

DuMont Owner Colin Devlin Commits Suicide

Mr. Devlin was a pioneer in the Williamsburg food scene, which is to say the whole back-to basics, farm-to-table movement. His excellent restaurant Dressler on Broadway near the Williamsburg Bridge just shut down a few weeks ago due to a failure to come to terms with the landlord on a new lease (i.e. the rent was going up, up, up). It was an absolute shock, like someone abruptly tore away part of the fabric of the neighborhood, and there was a feeling of genuine loss. Not to mention it was always extremely busy with locals & tourists, so it seemed extra hard to fathom.

I never met the man but I’ve eaten at all of his restaurants (DuMont and DuMont Burger are still, I sincerely hope, going strong) and not only was the food great and the experience fun but they played an important part in my wife & I falling in love with this ugly-beautiful part of Brooklyn.

When they write the epitaph of the inevitable decline and loss of identity of Williamsburg caused by ever-escalating real estate prices and uncontrolled development pushing out the middle and artisan class to find cheaper housing and work space elsewhere (as is happening in so much of New York City), the sad and lonely death of Mr. Devlin may well serve as a symbolic turning point: the Beginning of the End.

Our sincere condolences to his family, friends & employees from all the folks here at MFL. May you have the strength to carry on.

*Update: NY Times article here.

Vintage Watch Collecting: The Rolex GMT-Master

First let me say that I am definitely biased: My first Rolex was an old reference 1675 GMT-Master from the late 1960s that I won on eBay before I knew anything about vintage watches in general or Rolex history in specific. But I was lucky because the watch turned out to be both A) genuine and B) a totally awesome choice for a noobe. Here’s what it looked like…

1.9milGMT-12copy

And here’s why it’s a great choice for the guy who just got his first really good payday or bonus:  Continue reading