When Rolex introduced the reference 1680 Submariner circa 1969 they did something entirely new for the brand: they created their first-ever dive watch with date function. Now your first reaction might well be: “What took them so long?” Blancpain, Omega and others had long had date divers in their portfolio. But the wheels of change move slowly at Rolex and they are never terribly concerned about following the latest trends. So no doubt the question of whether to make a date version of their iconic Submariner was considered with all due deliberation as the 1960s progressed and then the decision to proceed finally taken at the end of the decade when all the numbers had been crunched and the sales potential gamed out. In the end, it proved to be a very smart if somewhat belated call by the marque of the Coronet.

Using their recently developed caliber 1575 date/chronometer movement, which Rolex had previously reserved for their ubiquitous Datejust and legendary GMT-Master, the first versions of 1680 Submariner had the very interesting quirk of red writing for the model name on the matte dial. There is a great, thorough examination of the different acceptable Red Sub dials and their relative scarcity in the Classics section of the Vintage Rolex Forum for those who are looking for the fine details. But suffice to say what seemed like an eye-catching way to differentiate the date model from its traditional no-date brethren, the all-white refs. 5513 and chronometer-rated 5512, would eventually make the Red 1680 one of the most desirable and collectible vintage Rolex Sports models in the pantheon. And when its big brother the cult classic saturation dive-ready ref. 1665 Sea-Dweller debuted with its signature double lines of red for the initial double model name — “Sea-Dweller/Submariner 2000” —  it was only a matter of time for the prime position in the hierarchy for red writing Rolex dials to be cemented in collectors’ psyches. Owning a vintage Red Sub has become the goal of many enthusiasts of the brand and fans of tool watches in general, both novice and expert.

Rolex also had another idea for the 1680 Sub in mind, that of a super exclusive all-gold stunner along the lines of their elite gold GMT-Master, which existed from the very debut of the GMT line back in the mid 1950s. But Rolex had never made a gold Submariner — until they did so in stunning fashion with the debut of a gold 1680 to go along with its more workaday all-steel version. With a list price about five times that of its steel sister when purchased on its heavy 18 karat Oyster Fliplock bracelet with diver’s extension, the Gold Sub was immediately a status symbol of great impact.

With their beautiful “Nipple” markers borrowed from the GMT, the gold 1680 was initially produced in extremely small numbers with a meters-first depth rating just like the initial run of steel models. But for whatever reason, perhaps due to the increasing importance of the American market, Rolex switched to the feet-first style of depth rating almost immediately for the gold models. So finding a Gold Sub with a meters-first dial is something of a Grail for fans of the watch. Initially produced with only black dials, Rolex introduced a handsome blue dial variation at some point in the early to middle 1970s and some of these have aged to very attractive purple and brown hues through the years making them prime objects of affection for “Tropical” dial enthusiasts. Interestingly, Rolex never made a 1680 in bi-metal steel and gold even though there was a GMT version with the cal. 1575 available in the 70s. The two-tone Subs would not be introduced until the change in reference to the 16800 with the new 3035 hi-beat, quickset date movement, and rapidly became best selling versions. But if you see a two-tone 1680 just remember that it is a conversion, as no 1680 was ever born that way.

With the model an unprecedented success with the public even amidst the rocky waves that the quartz revolution was stirring up, Rolex tweaked the 1680 one last time. Perhaps intending to save on dial production costs or maybe simply due to legibility concerns and a desire for cleanness of design, Rolex eliminated the red Submariner print circa 1973-4. Thus was born the White Sub (along with a similar redesign of the Sea-Dweller). Undoubtedly produced in larger numbers than the totality of Red Subs as sales continued to surge, the White 1680 is nonetheless a desirable iteration in its own right. It just looks like a purpose built a tool watch and the all-white print is also pleasingly crisp and utilitarian. For many people a Submariner with a date, that characteristic high-sided acrylic Cyclops crystal and wonderful fat font bezel insert is the definition of a vintage Rolex Sports model. And while the 1680 was replaced in the late 1970s by the sapphire crystal 16800, there is a strong case to be made that the original date Sub is still the one to own and still wears better than its successors. For many a Rolex fan — and many a dive watch enthusiast — their collection is simply not complete without at least one version of 1680 Submariner in the stable.