Tag Archives: Gerald Genta

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — Vintage 1970s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak JUMBO 5402ST B-Series

SOLD

Up for sale, a watch that needs no introduction — Gerald Genta’s all time design classic, the original, legendary all-steel Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo reference 5402ST. This coveted and rare Royal Oak is from the second B-series produced in the mid-1970s and is in Excellent vintage condition overall with a stunning original deep gray Petite Tapisserie dial in absolute Near Mint condition. Featuring all its original case parts as far as I can tell, this Royal Oak 5402 still has its correct second generation signed bracelet clasp, correct unsigned octagonal crown, correct original date wheel and original matching Tritium slim paddle hands. The amazing integrated bracelet has minimal stretch for its age and will fit up to a 7 1/4” wrist comfortably.

This ultimate cult Royal Oak features AP’s revolutionary JLC-derived caliber 2121 ultra-thin automatic-winding calendar movement, a technical marvel with recessed rotor that enables the brilliantly engineered case to remain so thin. This magical caliber was also used in the original Patek Phillipe Nautilus 3700 and the Vacheron Contsantin 222 among others. I had wanted to send this watch to AP for a service but their new policy is to make any 5402 “like new” cosmetically, replacing crown, hands, etc and thereby destroying the vintage originality for us true collectors. So you know going forward unmolested examples like this one are going to become harder and harder to come by. In any event, instead I just had this Royal Oak fully overhauled by my watchmaker, including the installation of a new mainspring, while allowing no other cosmetic work. 

While not a safe queen, the case of this Royal Oak still has sharp chamfers & bevels that appear to me to be unpolished, while the bezel has either softened from years of cuff wear or has been lightly polished at some point in the past (never by me). The watch shows minor wear commensurate with semi-regular use over its nearly 50 years of life, though it’s still in Excellent vintage condition. To my mind, that means you don’t have to worry about babying it and can just strap it on and go when the mood strikes, which is what I’ve done for the eight or so years that I’ve owned this beauty.

The star of the show is the magnificent original Petite Tapesserie dial, which has not gone tropical as so many have and retains its original deep metallic charcoal gray color, with notes of blue in the sun. There are a few very subtle speckles showing in places from the brass beneath under magnification, an effect more noticeable by far in these macro photos than to the naked eye. The original slim hands match the dial perfectly and the appearance is absolutely stunning, looking just about like it came out of the factory yesterday save the pleasingly warm lume patina and the slight “sparkle” effect.

On the wrist, this classic ultra-slim Royal Oak is simply magic. You’ll understand all the hype once you’ve put one on and they don’t come up for sale in this sort of condition too often. Think about making this piece of watchmaking history yours today!

SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — July selection

We may be well and truly deep into the heat of July but here’s something ineffably cool — a late 1960s Seamster “Special” with stunning original gloss black dial. Black dials are quite uncommon on Omega dress models of this era and are highly sought after. With its silver print and outstanding original condition this one’s a pip.

Dating from circa 1967-68 and powered by the redoubtable Omega in-house caliber 565 with quickest date via repeatedly pulling out the crown, this Seamaster is a well balanced and classic gent’s 35mm in diameter. It also comes on its period correct beads-of-rice bracelet, a nice bonus, as well as a hand made black leather strap for added versatility..

For some obscure reason — perhaps the enhanced luminous dial? — this model is referred to as a “Special” in Omega’s vintage database. It is also believed that this case and dial combo is likely one of Gerald Genta’s designs for the company. Looking at the beautiful proportions and ergonomics of this watch on the wrist one can easily see why. No doubt about it — Special is a term that truly fits this handsome devil.

Although Omega made a lot of dress Seamasters during this era, a solid steel model rather than gold plated version represents great value for money in my opinion. When you throw in its eye-catching good looks and that magical deep black dial, this Seamster “Special” is one of the true bargains of the vintage watch world. Grab it while that’s still the case!

Check out the complete ad now over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Private Sales section for many more pictures and complete condition report. Better step on it — I don’t see this black beauty lasting too long.  ON HOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — March selection

The recent run of remarkable vintage Omegas continues into March with this stunning and ultra-funky 1969 Jumbo Constellation Day-Date. Featuring a large rectangular cushion style case and integrated bracelet that meets the case precisely at its widest point, this Connie is something of a precursor to other famous avant-garde integrated bracelet watches like the Gerald Genta-designed AP Royal Oak and Patek Nautilus. As a major design contributor for many Omega Constellations during the late 1950s and throughout 1960s who knows if there isn’t some Genta DNA in this model, as well?

Under that neo-futurist body beats the excellent caliber 751, arguably the last of Omega’s great in-house movements until the modern era. It was fully serviced in 2015 and features not only day and date complications but also a very cool quickest date function by repeatedly pulling the crown out to its second position. So once you set the day by full 24-hour revolutions of the hands it’s a piece of cake to match up the date, presto chango.

Its beautiful horizontally brushed Near Mint original dial changes tone in different light from pewter to bright silver and the watch as a whole is in Excellent vintage condition, showing little if any polish and displaying sharp chamfers. If you want to talk cheap thrills in the overheated vintage watch world this model of Connie has got be high up on the list. Space age cool combines with a fantastic analog heart to make for a premium piece that you’re not likely to see on anyone else’s wrist. Dig that!

Come and get it right now by checking out the full ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Private Sales section. SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — September selection, Pt. II

My second offering in September is nevertheless a premier watch — a classic early 1960s Universal Geneve Polerouter Date with stunning black gilt-gloss dial and trademark Speedmaster-style twisted lug case (both watches shared the same case maker back in the day). Said to be designed by the great Gerald Genta himself in his early days — the legend behind such later icons as the Royal Oak and the Nautilus — these early Polerouters are getting harder to find in good condition and more & more desirable overall.

And with good reason. The Polerouter was made tough with a high quality steel screw back case for water resistance and gained its name keeping good time for Scandinavian pilots flying over the highly magnetic North Pole shortcut in the 1950s. The Polerouter was also made innovative, as Universal quickly came up with a revolutionary micro-rotor system of automatic winding, their own proprietary Microtor, to reduce the thickness of the movement and therefore the watch. This winding system was so clever and ahead of its time that Patek Philippe revisited it in the modern era to legendary — and legendarily expensive! — effect.

Most of all the Polerouter was made super stylish courtesy of Mr. Genta. With its two-part dial composed of gorgeous black gilt-gloss crosshair interior and machined textured calibrated silver outer track, this Polerouter Date is nothing short of a stunner. Most of these dials have deteriorated badly and while this one does show a little of its age it’s still in really fine condition with crisp printing and wonderfully warm vintage charm. Equally well-matched with a suit and tie, an Oxford or a faded T this classic Polerouter is a fine companion for any occasion. But hurry — just as time waits for no one this legendary vintage icon is priced to fly away quickly!

Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and complete condition report over at the always hopping Omega Forums’ Private Sales section.  SOLD

tomvox1’s Watches for Sale — September selection

Well here’s something you don’t find every day: a 55-year-old watch with its original boxes and papers! But that’s the case with this classic gold-capped vintage 1961 Omega Constellation that I’m offering this month. Not only is it in truly Excellent and unmolested vintage condition with no signs of polish, an all-original non-luminous crosshair dial and its original plated Beads of Rice bracelet but it’s also accompanied by its original double box-set and matching guarantee papers. And that turns an already cool vintage watch into collector grade just like that.

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Under the hood is the fantastic Omega automatic caliber 561, arguably part of the best family of mass-produced movements in the history of horology. It features 24-jewels, a semi-quickset date function and has 5 positional adjustments and one for temperature. This fine tuning enabled the 561 to pass its time-keeping tests with flying colors and that’s why it was such a successful movement for Omega’s flagship line, the always Chronometer-rated Constellation.

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Take affordability, elegance and mechanical precision along with classic early-60s Gerald Genta-designed vintage style and add then hard to find pieces of original provenance and you’ve got a special package for the discerning collector. That this Connie has survived for so long in such great original condition and still is paired with its factory packaging and paperwork is nothing short of magical. At least that’s the way I look at these sort of wonderful vintage watch finds. And if you’re reading this I bet you do, too.

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Check out the complete ad with many more pictures and full description over at the excellent OmegaForums.net’s Private Watch Sales section. BLOWOUT SALE